Accommodation is expensive in Ushuaia,  the world’s ‘southernmost city’ in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, and the place is not that attractive. However, there is some beautiful countryside nearby with great free camping opportunities. Here are 5 of our favorites.

1 Estancia Harberton – Rio Cambaceres

A worthwhile destination in its own right, this estancia dates back to 1886 and has a fascinating history. In a beautiful location on a headland near the Beagle Channel, there are guided tours and a nice cafe in the old house.

The Museo Acatushun at the entrance to the property has a superb display of marine animal skeletons and the AR$290 entrance charge covers both attractions.

The entrance booth at the Museo issues permits for the three free camping spots on the property. All are on rivers, but the most attractive is undoubtedly Rio Cambaceres, with serene views out to the Beagle Channel. We had a couple of idyllic days there and in the evenings you can watch the Antarctic ships heading out. There are fireplaces only and plenty of space for tents or trucks.

Tip: Be sure to walk up the distinctive hill overlooking the Beagle on the western side of the bridge just before the camping area: it has the most beautiful view. You might also see wild cattle and horses.

2 Puerto Almanza – Rio Almanza RP 30

How cool is this – not only a superb view over the Beagle Channel to the distant twinkling lights of Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino in Chile with the Dientes de Navarino mountains, but some big artillery pieces to play with!?

On RP 30 just west of Puerto Almanza, this is a pleasant stop as you head to or from Estancia Harberton. After passing the army base on the right – more artillery – and crossing the Rio Almanza bridge, this place is below the road on the left. Trucks could go for the scenic beachside spots, tents might prefer the more sheltered areas on the river below the bridge.

Either way, it is a quiet spot and has some great views and beach walks. The gun is obvious and there is another one at the side of the road above; they appear to date back to the 1950’s and are generally pointing in the Chile direction. (Funnily enough, there are some opposite on Isla Navarino pointing towards Argentina! ) . There are only fireplaces.

Tip: There are lots of fishermen’s shacks selling centolla or king crab alongside the road.

3 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego – Laguna Verde & Rio Pipo

Situated only about 12 km from Ushuaia this park is a must stop on any Tierra del Fuego itinerary, though actually very little of it is accessible and I found the coastal scenery to be more beautiful than the mountains here.

These campgrounds aren’t strictly free as entrance to the park is AR$350 each but once you are in, you can stay as long as you like, though it is officially 2 nights/3 days.

Space at Laguna Verde is limited for vans but if you grab a spot on the edge of the lake, it is lovely and there are nice views of the mountains. If you have a tent or bicycle and are prepared to walk in, the end peninsula area is even better.  It is a lovely area to walk and look out for bird life.

Rio Pipo is more spacious and has some nice river spots, with wandering horses on our visit. Both sites have clean toilets with loo paper which are cleaned daily, and there are fireplaces but you need to bring your own wood as you are not allowed to collect it in the park.

Most of the walks in the park are quite short and easy. I enjoyed the Sendero Hito XXIV track which follows the lake towards the Chilean border post; you can find some small secluded beaches en route and there is a good chance of spotting the giant Magellanic woodpeckers – the male is the one with the red head.

Tip: Mossies are fierce, bring repellent.

4 Laguna Bombilla & Lago Fagnano

This is a beautiful camping area on a large lagoon which adjoins Lago Fagnano. Access is easy on a gravel road which leaves RN 3 south of Tolhuin and just north of Lago Escondido so it is a good halfway stop between Tolhuin and Ushuaia.

The sites are scattered in a wooden area on the lagoon which is popular with fishermen and there is plenty of space for tents and trucks. There are fireplaces and lots of wood around, but no other facilities.

There are some nice strolls around the lagoon and onto the shores of Lago Fagnano, which stretches all the way to Chile. Walk west down the shoreline for some great mountain views.

Tip: When coming through Tolhuin, stop at La Union bakery for yummy empanadas and great pastries. Before you leave, check out the panoramic view of Lago Fagnano from its easternmost end.

5 Camping at Rio Olivia N of Ushuaia on RN 3

This is a pleasant riverside camping area with scattered trees and is just off the main RN 3, very handy for Ushuaia as only 18 km north of there, on the western side of the road. You can camp both sides of the river, a dirt track leading to the further sites away from the road, which is very quiet at night so you will not be disturbed.

It is boggy in some places so a 2WD will have a more limited choice of places – otherwise there is plenty of space for trucks and tents. There are fireplaces and some wood around – check out the other campsites and you will probably find some that has been left behind.

Tip: If you are determined to camp in Ushuaia, there are various parking lots in town that people seem to use. However, for a quieter spot with a great Ushuaia view, drive to the parking place at the top of the hill, on the right, just before the airport. This would be a bit exposed for tents though!

 

Exchange Rate: £1 = ARG 24