Fabulous beaches line the western coast of Florida. We enjoyed the sunsets then headed inland to clear springs and the unspoilt forest of Ocala.
Leaving the Everglades and Big Cypress behind us, we hit the Gulf of Mexico at Naples, a glossy town named as one of the best places to retire in America. This brings with it lots of golf courses (golf was actually introduced to America there), good restaurants, including a fun food truck area, and great beaches.
The beaches continue all the way to Tampa. They include Sanibel, another Hemingway winter hideout known for the fine shells on its beaches and Cabbage Key which Jimmy Buffett was actually talking about when he wrote Cheeseburger in Paradise. The old Florida Island Inn Is a lovely place to escape to or just join the day trippers on the ferry from Pine Island, actually joined to the mainland by a causeway.
How cool is it to walk along the beach and pick up fossilised shark teeth? Caspersen Beach, on the southern fringes of Venice, is one of the best places in the world to find these relics.
Even more effectively, arm yourself with a fine sieve or sifter and scoop up the shells where the waves break. The jet black teeth are very obvious once you know what to look for. We only found a couple of little ones, but perservere and it is possible to find full sized teeth.
A lot of fun is guaranteed if nothing else and it is easy to spend time on the attractive sandy beach backed by small palms ideally suited for hammock swinging.
We spent so long looking for sharks teeth that we missed the actual sunset at the Fishing Jetty, the preferred spot in the area. However, the jetty still looked good with a flaming sky behind it when we arrived.
The popular Sharky’s restaurant was very busy with fine dining on the top deck at Fins and more casual style on the lower level.
There is a nice boardwalk, popular with fisherman and you can actually hire fishing rods and try your luck from the end of the jetty – no licence required for Florida residents – ssshhh!
There is a weird street layout in Venice and the names turn peculiarly Spanish, but if you can find it, the municipal beach is also nice. Sharks teeth can still be found and a coral reef a quarter of a mile offshore attracts divers.
We checked into the leafy campsite at Oscar Scherer State Park, about 8 easy miles north of Venice. The scrub land surrounding it is a protected habitat for the rare Florida Scrub Jay, a rather undistinguished looking grey and lilac bird about the size of a thrush. We followed the eponymous trail for half a mile from little Osprey Lake through the pinewoods and scrubby flatwoods without a sighting. There are other minor walk options and a small beach at the lake where one can swim.
The Legacy Trail follows an old railway line, running 18.5 miles from Venice to Sarasota. Traversing Oscar Scherer State Park, it provides a scenic cycling route between the two cities and is a fun way to spend a day in the area.
Later, we were visited by cheeky raccoons who tried to raid both our rubbish and the car – it is sad that we saw none in the Everglades due to predation by Burmese pythons.
Ellerton
If you need more beach time, Siesta Key has one of the most highly rated beaches in the US, its sandbank running up the coast opposite Oscar Scherer. And if you have ever wondered what those huge rvs look like inside, check out the hundreds of huge and glossy models at RV World, one mile south of the park – it bills itself as the home of the happy camper. It is quite funny in that in the US the RVs look like horse boxes but horses go in trailers!
Ellerton
An hour north of Venice but actually the southernmost antebellum house in the States, the bijou Gamble Plantation House at Ellerton is worth a stop.
Following the second Seminole Indian War (1836-1842) Congress promoted the development of the frontier and offered settlers 160 acres if they would live on the land for 5 years.
In 1843 Major Robert Gamble decided to take up the challenge, selecting his spot when his boat ran aground on a sandbank of the nearby Manatee river.
The mansion took six years to build with slave labour and local craftsmen. He grew sugar, importing the best mill machinery from England and the estate grew to encompass 3,500 acres with 189 slaves.
However, Gamble was unlucky. His wooden sugar factory containing his first crop was burnt down after a lightening strike. Another year he lost a crop to a hurricane, yet another the temperature dropped too low for the plants to survive and then the market collapsed.
By 1856 he was in debt and in 1859 he sold the plantation to his debtors – the only things of value on the place were the slaves which at that time were worth about US $800 each or US $10-12,000 in today’s money.
During the civil war the house was occupied by a blockade runner, who later helped Judah P Benjamin to escape to England – the Confederate Secretary of State feared trial for treason and was on the run. He stayed at the house before his departure. In England he enjoyed great success as a barrister.
Fallen into ruin and used for fertilizer storage, the house was rescued in 1925 when it was bought by the Daughters of the Confederacy. It is now beautifully restored with period furniture although it is quite stark as there are no gardens around it. Nearby is an original 1895 Florida Farmhouse, built by the Patten family who owned the plantation at the time.
We had an informative friendly guide who took us through the various rooms of the house, from parlour, office and kitchen to a couple of upstairs bedrooms and a dressing room.
The house is quite narrow but is surrounded by airy balconies and verandahs with big windows and cool shutters. It has no less than 18 columns and a pediment in the Greek style and was constructed using tabby, a homemade cement of shells, sand and lime in equal proportions – the walls are two feet thick. Outside, a large cistern collected rainwater from the roof.
Cortez
I saw Cortez written up as a traditional fishing village, part of the old Florida – but it appears to be as much of the old Florida as Key West pretends to be. It is rapidly being subsumed by development around its edges and it’s traditional fishing sheds and shacks are now busy restaurant production lines – or at least that is what we found at the height of January. Aim for the quieter months and maybe a little of the old atmosphere can still be glimpsed.
However the little harbour area still presents a lively sight with an abundance of fishing boats and pelicans. Offshore, there is an old wooden shack on stilts which has featured on all the marketing posts.
We called in for lunch at the busy Star Fish Company Seafood Market and Restaurant – join the queue to order at a hole in the wall (cash only), grab a seat and your name will be hollared once ready.
We both had fried and blackened mullet: the latter was especially tasty and the chips were good but with typical American overkill we were also given cheese grits on the side (a local speciality resembling a cornmeal porridge) which were quite disgusting, as well as coleslaw and Hush Puppies which turned out to be a particularly dense onion bhaji equivalent. At least the pelicans were entertaining and it has a nice jetty setting with tables.
If the wait is too long at Star Fish, there are other fishing shack dining options to try, including Tide Tables which has table service near the causeway to Anna Maria Island. It is worth having a wander around the peninsula to try and spot the older residences. The small Florida Maritime Museum in an old schoolhouse has a bit of Cortez history and enthusiastic volunteers.
Anna Maria Island
From Cortez, it is possible to cross the nearby causeway to Anna Maria Island which has beaches stretching all the way up its west coast, the most choice being at the northern tip. It is a fairly low level place by American standards although be prepared for heavy traffic at popular times as there is really only one road. Ginny’s and Jane E’s Cafe and Coastal Store on 9807 Gulf Drive is the go to place for coffee and cake, as well as offbeat gifts and beach supplies.
Green Swamp Wilderness Preserve
We decided it was time to head inland for a change and 60 km north east of Tampa, we pulled in to camp at the Green Swamp Wilderness Preserve which is part of the Southwest Florida Water Management District (SWFWMD) and the headwater area for four rivers.
All of their campsites are free but have to be booked online at least 24 hours before, whereupon they email a key code to open the access gate. In January, it was actually quite hard to find space, especially at the weekends.
We had booked the Cumpressco site and although roughly in the right area as we drove in late as usual at dusk, we were relieved to see a large local in a pickup truck at the gate who pointed us in the right direction – having left the coast behind, we were finally beginning to see countryside again rather than concrete and the rednecks were coming out.
Ironically, as the only free campsite we had found on the trip, Cumpressco was possibly the nicest – there were no giant RVs everywhere, just low key tents and caravans and people sitting around a fire (albeit in 24° heat) chatting rather than watching Netflix with the generator on annoying us. Other than the distant mournful cry of passing trains, it was remarkably quiet by American standards. Set in a leafy scattered forest, we awoke to the burbling coo of pigeons and the sun fluttering gently through the canopy.
Hillsborough River State Park
We decided to start the day with some gentle exercise at Hillsborough River State Park, but inevitably we got distracted en route by a yard sale.
I am a great fan of car boot sales in England or even vide greniers in France, but this was something new entirely. A large gated community which seemed to be a pristine blend of RVs and kit houses had the tat displayed in the usual manner – except that instead of walking around as one might expect people drove up and down the streets, following a temporary one way system.
It was all quite bizarre and we rapidly gave up, parked and retrieved the car later, although we soon found out that American retirement villages don’t have much of interest for sale, not that we could have carried much anyway!
Most disappointing of all was the cake bake whose offerings were quite meagre by American standards. We continued on to our original destination, Hillsborough River State Park, which is on the US 301 about 25 miles north east of Tampa.
It is a pleasant spot to spend the day with a river surrounded by atmospheric Spanish moss wreathed pine and cypress trees, some of them quite big, and lush vegetation that feels quite primeval.
There are several trails which follow the river, starting with the easy 1.2 miles River Rapids Trail (although the rapids are only singular and very small). It is worth going that little bit further on the 3.2 mile loop Seminole Trail, which shadows the river for half its length and which can be accessed via a solid suspension bridge that spans the river. We saw several turtles sunning themselves on fallen logs.
The park also contains Fort Foster, a recreated fort from the Seminole Indian Wars, but it was closed on our visit. It is possible to hire kayaks or bicycles and there is a popular campsite.
Zephryhills Museum of Military History
After a shady picnic lunch by the river, we called in at the Museum of Military History at Zephryhills. In the 1940s, pilots of the 10th Fighter Squadron trained there until they were transferred to Europe. After the war all the barracks were dismantled, with the exception of an infirmary building which was subsequently turned into a museum.
Entry is free but it is manned with the usual zealous volunteers. We spoke to one who had been involved in the Korean War, and he pointed out the various displays which range from the Civil War right through to the modern day and the Gulf.
It was a well laid out exhibition of the type that America does so well: one of many little eclectic collections scattered throughout small town America. We spent an enjoyable hour reading through the displays.
Our next campsite was deep in the Withlacoochee Forest at River Junction. It was a nice spacious one and had great hot showers except I was unfortunate to coincide with 6 teenage girls – if you think the adults are loud, wait until 6 girls are together!
Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park
Homosassa began as a refreshment stop on the railroad in the early 1900’s and became a minor zoo centered around the crystal clear springs which gush 2 million gallons of water out per hour at a temperature of 72-74°.
The State Parks took over in 1989 and it became the only state park devoted to the rehabilitation or protection of animals which could not survive in the wild.
Their first customer was Lu, a rather sad hippo who started life as an actress and celebrated her 64th birthday on 26th January 2024.
Manatees are also a frequent visitor to the springs, which are warmer than the sea in colder weather. Despite appearances, they only have an inch of fat on them and can be badly affected by dropping temperatures: anything below 68° can trigger cold stress and pneumonia.
The springs cover a large area and there is a submerged viewing tower at the main end. The windows are rather murky but one can see the visiting manatees, as well as numerous fish.
We listened to a short talk about the manatees; four were in residence at the time with two being permanently on the park and another two recovering from motorboat injuries.
Afterwards we diligently followed the chap to a manatee feeding session which, as Simon remarked, was about as exciting as watching paint dry! Heads of lettuce were thrown into the pool and quietly hoovered up.
We moved on, seeing a variety of birds, many of which had been injured in road accidents or by entanglement with old fishing lines. It was a similar story with the animals: a three legged fox, two lovely pumas which had been taken as pets when young and alligators which had been fed so losing their fear of man.
Although they all looked very well cared for, it was a shame to see some of the larger animals in such confinement, although it is a good opportunity to get close to the fauna of Florida and the surroundings are very pretty.
Weeki Wachee
6 km south of Homassa, we made the error of popping in to Howard’s Flea Market (every Saturday and Sunday). The place was enormous, filled with every type of dealer and trader one could imagine. There was a whole aisle devoted to guns and knives, lots of craft stuff, out of date stuff, puppies, a few better antique shops and a stall selling Trump supporter stickers as in “Don’t blame me, I voted for Trump!” and “2024?? “
It was really the sort of place that needs a whole day devoted to it, including lunch – and there were plenty of food stalls too. Not being mentally prepared for such excess, it was all rather overwhelming and we fled after an hour.
We continued south to Weeki Wachee, passing stores advertising ‘Guns and Pawn’ which sounded vaguely obscene but wasn’t!
Weeki Watchee Springs are about an hour north of Tampa. Emerging at 74° they are remarkably clear. Even more remarkable is the mermaid show which has been entertaining visitors (including Elvis) since 1947. In that time they have got through over 2000 girls who swim around 20 feet under water with breathing hoses. It sounded all too kitschy for me so we gave that one a miss. The river has some nice kayaking too and a wilderness boat cruise – your call, it might just be charming!
Brooksville
This is a pleasantly low key unspoilt town which hasn’t been hit by over development.
In rural Florida it is easy to feel that the days of the Confederacy are still held in high esteem. A Confederate soldier stands on a plinth outside the smart courthouse and just around the corner there is a large mural representing the Brooksville Raid when the two armies clashed in 1864.
The Union Army landed at Bayport with four ships and marched inland to destroy Confederate supply and communication lines to the north. One Union soldier was injured and it never got beyond skirmishing and looting.
There is also another general war memorial in the square and one to five soldiers killed in the Gulf Wars – this depicted a pair of boots with an upended rifle between them with a helmet on top, quite a departure from the more traditional monuments we know in England.
Just across from the mural, Mountaineer Coffee roasts and sells their own coffee beans and actually produced that rare thing in America: a good latte.
The following day we left our River Junction Campsite and drove north to Ocala, one of the great horse producing areas of America – not that it was obvious beyond the usual urban sprawl.
However, we did find an equine thrift shop, although luckily it was so stupidly expensive we were not tempted!
We had the all American lunch experience at Ocala Diner on South Magnolia when we each had a beefburger. However, we were offered rare, medium or well done and when they came were actually quite tasty – sometimes all you need is junk food!
Juniper Springs
Juniper Springs, 35 miles east of Ocala, was our next camping spot. A crystal clear spring emerges at a rate of 800 million gallons of water a day at a temperature of 72°.
In 1935-6 the Civilian Conservation Corps built the swimming pool area around the spring and the wooden mill house that still exists today with its revolving wheel that once produced electricity.
It is a pretty spot with aquamarine water; Simon braved the water and swam to the bottom where the water emerged amidst riffling sand. It pours past the turning wheel of the old mill, which has a display inside about the Civilian Conservation Corps which was such a good idea I think it should be revived in England.
Roosevelt’s project started in 1933. Unemployed boys were paid $30 a week ($25 was sent home) to build trails, roads, bridges and recreation areas around the states, educated (85,000 learnt to read and write), taught basic skills often relating to forestry, conservation and wildlife, as well as hygiene and etiquette – one Chicago judge reckoned crime in the city dropped by 55%.
The campsite sits on the Florida Trail within the 625 sq mile Ocala National Forest, one of the oldest National Forests in the US and an important wilderness area.
Our campsite was pleasantly secluded and leafy and we had a lazy evening under bright stars. It is strange in this area of Florida: apparently we were at high season for camping as all the snowbirds had come south for the winter, but low season for the swimming side of things, which actually peaks about May. The ranger said it gets up to 90° in summer and you wouldn’t want to camp it in – I am sure we regularly camp quite happily in that temperature in Australia.
The night was really cold and as dawn broke the pool steamed atmospherically. However sunlight filtered through the palms and it was a nice day so we went up to the entrance booth and organised a tandem kayak for the 4 hour, 7 mile trip down Juniper Creek to a meeting point on the I-19 from where we were shuttled back to base.
We picked our kayak up and wheelbarrowed it around to the drop in point near the springs. The water was so shallow we immediately beached it on a sandbar, but eventually got under way. The water was shallow and beautifully clear, overhanging with palms and tall trees. It steamed in the fresh morning air adding a stunning primeval aspect to it all.
The next four hours were a peaceful drift down stream, the current being strong enough that we had to do little more than steer. We grated over submerged logs, ducked under fallen trees and squeezed between leaning palms.
After 6 miles we even had a brief stretch of very minor rapids and, as the river broadened, alligator tracks could be seen on the muddy edges amidst the tall grasses.
We glimpsed an otter briefly and saw plenty of alligators and turtles sunning themselves. Finally we turned a corner to find our exit ramp and reluctantly hauled the kayak out – it had been an enchanting run down the river.
After lunch we contented ourselves with a lazy afternoon by the springs. It was just hot enough for a swimsuit in the sun and I enjoyed the warming rays, knowing home and England were only a week away.
Alexander Springs
Just 26 km to the south east, Alexander Springs gushes 70 million gallons of water a day at 72°. This is a natural water hole fringed with lush sub tropical vegetation, with a picnic area and steps to only one small side. Like Juniper, the water was very clear. Simon dared a quick snorkel and found quite a few fish.
The boardwalk was closed and we decided to take a canoe out on the river which was a very reasonable US $50 for the day (8am to 5pm).
The canoe proved to be a lot more stable than the kayak at Juniper and we floated down an idyllic waterway bedecked with lily pads, alligators and lots of turtles – the latter were quite often clustered on an exposed tree trunk to enjoy the sun.
It was all rather arcadian and peaceful until we turned for home after lunch and realized just how strong the current was, especially when combined with a stiff breeze.
Some hard paddling ensued until we reached the bridge a mile out from Alexander Springs and felt we could relax. We paddled quietly, looking for basking crocodiles and watching the herons and egrets fishing. The turtles were surprisingly wary: they can actually move quite quickly and invariably rolled rapidly off their log if one approached too closely.
As we pulled the canoe out we talked to a man from Tennessee who said he was escaping the cold at home and how the climate was doing strange things. He had seemed quite normal up until that point but then pointed out that God would balance things out.
When he told us that it was written that the American British alliance was to be the last superpower before we all entered the kingdom of God, I found it very believable as Putin could quite easily drop a bomb on our heads at any minute, although I wasn’t aware that the bible had foreseen the partnership!
Simon shook his head as we walked away.
‘Imagine if someone started talking to you like that in England!’ he exclaimed. ‘You should have just said “Sorry, we don’t do God!” ‘
We escaped to the Springs campsite which was delightfully leafy – nature is likely to fill me with far more peace and wonder than any spurious God. The weather, although it had been sunny had turned cold, especially at night, and after a hot shower I even resurrected (!) my Chilean woollen long johns – but at least we had lost the mosquitoes.
To the Atlantic Coast
The springs were steaming in the early morning after a cold night although the sun won out in the end. We drove east through a pleasantly undeveloped part of Florida until we reached the coast at Titusville and were back in Walmart world.
Luckily we managed to book into the Manatee Hammock Campground just south of Titusville which had some very pretty frontage overlooking the Indian River lagoon. Our campsite was set amidst shady palms and pines towards the waterfront and well away from the rv’s which was always a bonus.
We later strolled down to the little jetty from where there was a distant view of the Kennedy Space Centre – it would be a great viewing spot for watching the space launches which seem to be about once a week.
Considering it was only founded in 1977 by a crowd of enthusiasts, veterans and pilots, this is quite an impressive museum.
There are 51 aircraft within 3 hangars and a restoration workshop. We chose to have a guide to take us around the displays which gave us a reasonable overview, although he was a little too technical for my liking.
Most of the planes were modern era fighters or workhorses, although there was a 1942 C-47A which had been used in the D-Day landings to drop airborne troops. They also had displays on the various wars that America got involved in which had some interesting bits.
The museum is open daily 9-5 and is quite a steep US $22 but they do have an impressive restoration hangar to fund!
Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge
We started the day with a fabulous sunrise at our campground, breakfasting on a shady bench overlooking the serene waters – it was worth getting up early!
The refuge was established in 1963 on a 140,000 acre buffer zone created around the NASA John F Kennedy Space Centre. It provides a habitat for more than 1,500 species of plants and animals and has the only piece of undeveloped 40 mile stretch of beach on Florida’s east coast. This is a vital breeding ground for turtles.
However, it was the bird life that really stood out. We followed the seven mile Black Point Wildlife Drive which travels through salt and freshwater marshes and were amazed at the numbers and variety of birds: wading birds, shore birds, raptors (including two bald eagle nests although there are actually 12 throughout the Refuge) and even a good smattering of alligators.
It was rather like a bird safari with cars pulling in beside the road to watch egrets fighting over a particularly tasty mud wallow smorgasbord or the shoveling antics of a roseate spoonbill.
At the halfway point we detoured on foot on the 5 mile Cruickshank Trail which largely followed a levee bank around the marshes with peaceful views. It was a good way to lose 99% of Americans: walk over 100 m! We had a pleasant amble around the circuit although funnily enough the birding was probably actually better from the car section!
Afterwards we drove to the Haulover Canal and the Manatee Observation Post which are about 10 miles north of the Visitors Centre. There were no manatees, but on crossing to Bairs Cove on the other side of the road and river, we found a playful dolphin.
Finishing the day at Canaveral Seashore, we walked on a wide strip of sandy beach with hardy bathers and surfers in action. To the south, the erect structures around the launch complex could be seen – unfortunately the next rocket launch was to be the day we flew out.
South to Miami
It was time to head south again. A short drive away was Jetty Park, a waterfront park which looks directly north onto the Space Centre. There is a popular fishing jetty, grassy spots for picnicking and even a campsite – RVs can even bag a prime spot overlooking the inlet.
There is a huge cruise terminal next to the park and we saw some impressive leviathans which I am sure would be horrible to travel on.
Around the corner is Cocoa Beach which has a long sandy strip of beach but no shade whatsoever. The centre of town is a little further south and we picnicked at the pleasant Lori Wilson Park which has free parking and easy beach access. Parasols, body surfing boards and surfboards can be hired quite cheaply.
The beaches continue down the coast, an unbroken backdrop to development which stretches virtually all the way from Miami to the border.
Many bars and restaurants have a cool surfie vibe including Cadillac Cove at Satellite Beach which is a popular bar restaurant hang out. Melbourne, with a market and beach area, has a more low key surfing atmosphere.
That night we camped at Long Point Park, run by Brevard County like our previous Manatee Hammock Campground. Set on an island in the Indian River Lagoon, adjacent to the Sebastian Inlet, it has a protected habitat for wildlife such as otters, bobcats, manatees and birds. Nearly all the campsites faced the water and we had a fabulous sunset.
Our neighbour was escaping the cold of Alabama. We commiserated with her on the poor choice of future presidents which she tended to agree with. And Trump?
‘Well, he’s just not a nice man.’ she drawled, which summed him up nicely.
Mclarty Treasure Museum
We had an early start from Long Point but by the end of the day we were no more than another mile south.
Crossing the Sebastian Inlet bought us to the Treasure Coast, aptly named as in 1715 a Spanish treasure fleet of 10 ships heading towards Spain from Central America encountered a hurricane. All were wrecked and some 1,500 survivors gathered where the Mclarty Treasure Museum is today, building temporary shelters and sinking a fresh water well.
They were eventually rescued from the settlement of St. Augustine, but the treasure they left behind them is still being found today. A young Mel Fisher became involved with a local man and much was retrieved from the nearby flagship site.
Today people still walk the sands with metal detectors looking for coins and gold. Gold does not tarnish so pieces are found in their original shiny state – a recently found gold ring is coming up for auction with an estimate of US $250,000. Florida keeps 25% of the proceeds if the Treasure is sold, or otherwise has the pick of museum quality pieces for which it pays the finder.
The museum is only US $2 to enter and is fairly simple: all the best finds are obviously usually auctioned off or in the state capital of Tallahassee. However there was a very enthusiastic volunteer who was a mine of interesting background information.
At the back, a platform gives a nice view over the coast. When we went for a walk, we discovered the beach had very soft sand on a steep slope and it was quite hard work.
By the time we had finished in the museum, it was lunchtime and although we had intended driving further south, it was such a nice area we decided to ask at the Sebastian Inlet State Park if they had any camping spaces, thinking it was Sunday by then and probably quieter.
‘No, we’re always full!’ the friendly ranger told us, but he then suggested we try the Bayside Marina just on the north side of the bridge.
This turned out to be the only spontaneous campsite of the trip and also one of the best. With just 11 campsites, all walk in (up to 10 metres!), and no room for RVs, they had 8 available spaces – we were in and for only US $25!
It was quite a windy day so not much was happening in the marina. We virtually had the place to ourselves and enjoyed lunch on the deckchairs overlooking the water. When the wind became too strong we retreated to the verandah of the clubhouse – it was a perfect spot.
Later in the day, we visited Pelican Island, which became America’s first designated wildlife refuge in 1903 when President Theodore Roosevelt established it to protect pelicans.
We followed the 2.5 mile Bird Impoundment circuit which wasn’t the most exciting option as it largely just meandered around the peninsula amidst the mangroves, with only a few look out areas. There is another 3 mile loop trail around the adjacent headland which has better birding opportunities with a small lake and a lookout over the wetlands of the reserve.
Mel Fisher’s Treasures Museum
We awoke to a rather miserable day and decided to complete the trio of treasure museums by visiting Mel Fisher’s Treasures Museum in Sebastian, about 15 miles away on the mainland across from our spit.
It was much smaller than his Key West version and focused on Mel rather more than the treasures, but it did possess a hole in the wall through which one could insert a hand and pick up a gold finger bar worth half a million dollars.
A previous attempt at this trick had resulted in the bar been stolen and sold off piecemeal in Las Vegas, although the thieves were finally caught. If you want to take a souvenir home, there are coins from the shipwrecks for sale in the gift shop. They are not the most attractive things to start with and are quite clumsily mounted as pendants – apparently there is quite a demand from collectors for wreck artefacts.
Sebastian Inlet State Park
Sebastian Inlet State Park lies 14 miles south of Melbourne beach. It lies on both sides of the Sebastian Inlet, an artificially created inlet which forms the boundary between Brevard County or the Space Coast and Indian River County or the Treasure Coast.
It occupies 1000 acres on two barrier islands, with the Atlantic Ocean on the eastern shore and the Indian River Lagoon to the west. It was such a stunning, wild spot, far removed from the sprawling gated communities to each side that we decided to spend another night in the area.
We walked along the shoreline to Coconut Point and saw lots of wildlife – it is funny in that you quite often see more things from the car park than off the beaten track hiking!
Dolphins played and fished in the inlet, egrets and wood storks shadowed the banks and we even saw a red bellied woodpecker in the shrubs lining the inlet
In the other direction, a posse of photographers stood on the small jetty on the southern side of the inlet. Their camouflage lenses were pointed at fishing ospreys, as well as some Arctic terns – it is funny to think we might have seen the latter in Iceland last summer.
Another well traveled bird is the sanderling – these little tundra dwellers scurry around the shore line. They have three forward pointing toes and their legs are an absolute blur.
We had afternoon tea at the Swimming Cove, a pleasant sandy crescent of beach on the north side of the bridge. It was a beautiful, peaceful spot except the no-seeums were biting.
South to Miami
Our final day: we continued south from Sebastian Inlet, an endless succession of pristine grand houses and gated communities. Their surrounds are leafy and here and there small reserves hold out valiantly against the tidal wave of development.
At Fort Pierce Inlet, we swung back to the mainland, going south on Highway 1 then detouring back to the sand spit. This area looked a little more lived in with some old houses holding out amidst their more high rise neighbours.
We crossed back to the mainland for the final time at Sewalls Point, passing a sea of jetties – each house obviously has a private access point.
Highway 1 finally whisked us south to Miami where we detoured to the iconic South Beach. The legendary beach has colourful lifeguard huts but it is the buildings behind which are the star attraction: a non-stop delight of Art Deco architecture.
We wandered down Ocean Drive, a smorgasbord of jolly pastel buildings, a riot of prows and portholes, flags and geometric lines, echoing the days of the great ocean liners. There are some 800 buildings built between 1923 and 1943 in the historic district – it is worth popping into the Art Deco Welcome Centre for an introduction on the area. They have a good gift shop and also run popular walking tours.
Despite the Villa Casa Casaurina, the 1930’s style Spanish style mansion where Gianni Versace lived and died – now a flamboyant hotel – the area feels quite clean cut, jolly and safe. Outdoor cafes invite lingering and there are some attractive hotels if you want to stay – the pool at the Raleigh was once voted the finest in America.
We treated ourselves to a last iconic American experience: a burger lunch at the 11th Street Diner on Washington Avenue. The burgers were rare, juicy and came with a “Y’all have a nice day now!” but it was time to fly. One final challenge: finding the toll free route to the airport rental car drop off – I’m glad to report we succeeded!
