The summit walk to the Pic Rouge de Bassies is one of my favourite Pyrenean walks in the Couserans area of the Ariege, France.  It encapsulates all that is attractive about this mountain chain: the historic upland grazing lands, pretty lakes, stupendous views  and the desolate yet starkly beautiful grey, rocky landscapes of the high peaks.

 

This walk starts at Coumebiere, at 1,400 m on the D8 road between Massat and Aulus. This area is known for the annual transhumance, that is animals being moved from the valleys to the mountains for grazing over the summer. Thus at the start of the walk you are likely to see and hear cows with their decorative bells.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Near the beginning there is an attractive old wooden trough at a spring used for watering the herds and it is possible to see the remains of some orreys: pretty little stone huts used as shelter in the old days when the herdsmen would stay on the mountains with the beasts. Nowadays they can drive up daily and for those few that still remain on the mountain there are modernised houses.

Within about 40 minutes, the Etang (lake) de Labant is reached at 1,597 m. This pretty lake is a worthwhile stop at any time of day and on this recent walk we lingered over a picnic. The route continues on above the lake, following a grassy crest to the Col de las Fouzes at 1,944 m.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is only about 2 hours from the start of the walk and as we started late in the day, we actually set up camp on the ridge. There is a great view over the Etangs de Bassies far below and the guarded refuge where it is possible to stay on full board, or at least to stop by for a coffee.

Dawn the next day saw the early clouds shrouding the mountains but gradually the sun won through and bathed everything in a rosy light. The distinctive pink hue of the Pic Rouge which gives it it’s name is best appreciated at this time of day, or at sunset. The colour comes from the mix of feldspar, mica and particularly rose quartz that is found in this granite rock.

The path to the Pic leads southwestwards along a crest which initially rises to the Pic des Planes (2,063 m), before descending to the Col de Morech (2,024 m) and once more rising to the Cot de Morech at 2,145 m.

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there, the crest is left behind and the path leads under the pic de la Fouradade (2,281 m) and then under the cliffs of the pic du Caumale (2,523 m), the way now becoming much rougher and rocky as the grassy slopes are left behind. Now there are good views to your left over the sparkling Lavants de l’Escale lakes.

The final climb to the top of the Pic Rouge de Bassies at 2,676 m is quite straightforward and the top is even fairly flat, so it is easy to wander around and fully appreciate the superb views. The most impressive is that towards Montcalm massif; at 3,143 m, Montcalm is the first 3000 m mountain you reach from the Mediterranean. This chain also marks the border between Catalogne in Spain and the Ariege in France.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the summit, you retrace your steps to the base of the Pic then bear east to come back down via the Lavants de l’Escale lakes – this path is marked in yellow. The lakes are extremely pretty, nestling under the distinct shark fin profile of the Pic Rouge. The water is clear and very cold.

After a steep descent, the path follows the outlet stream down past little waterfalls and pools. Tadpoles nestle amidst the reeds. It would be easy to linger along these banks all day, but if you follow them down you will find the Refuge de Bassies (www.bassies.free.fr) at 1,650 m

 

 

To the south east of the Refuge are other larger lakes (Etang Major, Etang Long and Etang d’Escales respectively), which are very popular with fishermen. All are superb places for wild camping.

The last lake has a dam and the waters are used as part of a hydro-electric scheme. From here, you can drop down very steeply onto old walled tracks which lead into the Vicdessos valley on the GR10 route (which traverses the whole of the French Pyrenees from side to side). However, this only works if you have another car on that side.

Otherwise, to complete a nice circuit, you just follow the red and white signage of the GR10 in the other direction from the Refuge, which will lead you back, over the Col de Bassies (1,933 m), past another little lake – the Etang d’Alate – and finally to the Port de Saleix (1,794 m). From there, it is an easy descent back to your starting point.

 

NOTES

Map: Carte IGN TOP 25 – 2148 OT «Vicdessos»

Or Carte des Randonnees PYRENEES No 7 «Haute Ariege, Andorre»

Approximate time needed: 8 – 10 hours, night on the mountain camping or in refuge recommended.

Approximate height climbed: 1,650 m