Arundells House, Salisbury, Wiltshire, UK (September 2019)

Ted Heath, one time British Prime Minister, lived in Arundells House until his death in 2005. Beautifully preserved as it then was, it reflects the man’s diverse interests and enjoys a wonderful location in Salisbury’s Cathedral Close.

Arundells House has a distinguished history dating back to 1222 but today it is chiefly known for its last occupant, British Prime Minister Edward ‘Ted’ Heath, who was in power from 1970 to 1974.

The Rear of the House from the Garden

Ironically, given our present turbulent times, he was responsible for taking Britain into the E.E.C. and interestingly he was an entirely self made man from a very humble background, unlike most of our Prime Ministers.

Born in 1916 at Broadstairs, Kent, Heath was the son of a carpenter and a serving maid. A product of the grammar school system, he studied politics, philosophy and economics at Balliol, Oxford, where he won an organ scholarship.

A Beautifully Informal Portrait of Ted Heath

Heath attended the 1937 Nuremberg rally where he was alarmed at such strident nationalism and he went on to serve with the Royal Artillery during World War 2. He was involved in the D-Day battles and later attended the Nuremberg trials. He had hoped to pursue a musical career on leaving the Army, but was thought to be too old, so entered merchant banking instead. 

Feel Free to play the Steinway in the Drawing Room

Politics beckoned and in 1950 he was elected as MP to Bexley. Heath rose rapidly: he became Government Chief Whip to Anthony Eden and backed Harold MacMillan’s attempt to lead Britain into the E.E.C. By 1965 he was the leader of the Conservative party, finally becoming Prime Minister in 1970.

Ministerial Red Boxes in the Study

He had quite a turbulent time with crippling miners strikes in 1972 and 1974. Northern Ireland was an ongoing issue but his was the first Government to achieve a power sharing approach. 

When he lost office in 1974, Heath remained in the House of Commons as the M.P. for Bexley until his retirement in 2001. Arundells was purchased in 1985 and its eclectic collection reflects his life and career. I am not sure how one becomes a Heath enthusiast but the volunteer guides are, and do a great job of filling in the blanks – though one can normally wander at will, the Wednesday guided tours are supposed to be very worthwhile.

Salisbury Cathedral from the Garden

One of the first things that strikes you about the house is the obvious Asian influence: Heath made 26 trips to China fostering relations between the two countries and seems to have happily collected its art. There are some stunning blue and white vases in the drawing room which were presented by Chairman Mao, the colourful Chinese silk wallpaper on the stairs depicts the Monkey King and there are superb Japanese woodcuts in the den.

Japanese Art in the Den

Indeed the house is worth visiting just for the art collection: 2 Winston Churchills – one of which survived an IRA bomb – a Lowry without matchstick men, a John Singer Sargent without a portrait. and other fine art including a very striking painting which was a gift from Fidel Castro.

Landscape near Aix by Churchill which survived an IRA bomb

Meander through the mind and life of the man as you visit the various rooms: from the grand Steinway piano in the drawing room – feel free to play if you can – to his cosy library den with floor to ceiling books and CDs, whisky selection and framed Knight of the Garter which was presented to him by the Queen in 1992. He described it as the proudest day of his life.

Political Figures in the Library

The upstairs study shows his official side: the large desk once belonged to another British Prime Minister, David Lloyd George, and there are sweeping views over the gardens; presents from Richard Nixon are prominent, as are the red ministerial boxes. The nearby bedroom where he died is fairly anodyne but it does enjoy a wonderful view of Salisbury cathedral: when someone once remarked that it must be one of the finest views in England, Heath dryly asked what the other ones were..

The Study with David Lloyd George’s Desk

On the way out, be sure to have a look at the yachting trophies: despite describing yachting as ‘standing in a cold shower tearing up £20 notes’, Heath was an enthusiast and had some notable successes, including winning the Sydney to Hobart yacht race in 1969. There is a further display in the old stables to the left of the front door.

Yachting Trophy from the Sydney to Hobart Race

Last but not least, the gardens meander down behind the house to the clear flowing waters at the junction of the Avon and Nadder rivers. Willows skim the surface and sheep graze in the tranquil meadows beyond. One can easily imagine the former Prime Minister finding this a very peaceful spot.

The Bottom of the Garden

A treat is in store as you turn around: tantalizing glimpses of the tower of Salisbury cathedral, playing hide and seek amidst the trees. To the left, the bow of the third Morning Cloud yacht serves as a memorial to Heath’s godson and another man who were swept overboard by a freak wave in 1974 as they headed to Cowes. The ship was lost but the rest of the crew survived. Bizarrely the piece that is now on display was offered for sale on Ebay and subsequently donated to the trust.

The Morning Cloud Memorial in the Garden

Someone once suggested that the bitterest day of Heath’s life was when he was supplanted by Margaret Thatcher as leader of the Conservative party and that he spent the rest of his life in a permanent sulk – the happiest day was apparently when she in turn was removed.  Wherever he is, I am sure he is laughing at our Brexit shenanigans now!

View over the Garden from the Study

There is no cafe in the house but turn right when you leave and walk 100 m to the Salisbury Museum Cafe. On a sunny summer’s day, their outside seating has a wonderful view of the Cathedral tower.

The Museum Cafe has a Great View

NOTES

More information on Arundells House and opening times can be found here

.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *