It is surprising how photogenic a millstone can be! Add in some of Derbyshire’s best Peak District scenery and this little circuit comes close to perfection.
‘How long did it take to carve one?’, Simon wondered as we admired the length of millstones stacked neatly beside the track.
Relics from an industrial age, the millstones of Derbyshire merge into the landscape like an organic Andrew Goldsworthy sculpture. Moss lends them an illusionary softness and bracken blurs their edges but underneath they are pure gritstone, a variety of coarse sandstone which is the underlying ingredient of Derbyshire’s Dark Peak.
The millstone industry in the region dated back to the 13th century but started to decline in the 18th when white bread became popular, requiring finer stones that didn’t leave a grey residue.
A composite quartz stone called chert, with greater longevity and fineness, became the preferred choice, leaving the millstones without a market. Averaging 2.4 tonnes and with a diameter of 1.8 metres, they were abandoned amongst the cliff faces and stone quarries of their birth.
The stones that you see today are a mixture: the proximity of Sheffield’s cutlery industry also created a market for sharpening or grinding stones and Hathersage had no less than 5 factories producing pins and needles. Edge runners were used for crushing ore or pigments – a fine example of the latter can be seen in situ at the Odin Mine above Castleton.
There are supposed to be some 1,500 millstones left in the Peak District and they are so ubiquitous that they are used as the Park emblem. There are many walks where you will stumble across them, notably under Stanage Edge or Curbar.
However the largest and arguably most photogenic group lie on Bole Hill, just to the north of Grindleford. These are thought to date back to the early 20th century and were probably actually designed for pulping wood for the paper industries.
They lie amidst the Bolehill stone quarry from where the stone was extracted for the Derwent Valley reservoirs. It was in use for just over 7 years and 1.25 millions tonnes of stone were quarried before its closure in 1914.
It is a short but scenic walk, encapsulating the variety and beauty of the Peak District in a 2 hour circuit.
The Walk
It is possible to find free parking on the approach road to Grindleford Station. The Grindleford Cafe, a long time hikers favourite, is resplendent in black and white just before the railway bridge and can be relied on for a big breakfast or coffee and cake later in the day.
Following the road over the railway bridge, a glance to the right will reveal the splendidly carved Totley Tunnel.
The road leads into Upper Padley with a lovely old millhouse just over the next bridge. A little further are the ruins of Padley Manor which are free and open. The surviving gatehouse was converted into a chapel: in 1588, the year of the Spanish Armada, 2 Catholic priests were arrested here and later hung, drawn and quartered in Derby.
Just past the Chapel there is a cattle grid where we turned right through a gate and followed a narrow grassy path uphill beside a wall. At the first tree, a left turn leads to the bottom of a steep 300 ft incline.
This carried the track for the old Bolehill stone quarry. When the top is reached the remains of a stone base can be seen within a large flat area – this once housed the large winding wheel that controlled the raising and descent of the trucks.
Bear to the right of the base then take the next left which leads up to another level area. There is a beautiful scattering of silver birch trees and in autumn it is a fertile ground for colourful mushrooms.
We ascended straight up to yet another level wooded area and walked leftwards along a wide grassy path. Bearing right at a cattle trough led to a sheer quarry face with a deep pool below it. It is very popular with climbers who often use the area for wild camping.
Backtracking to the path, we stayed on the same level and very soon came upon the millstone collection. There is a large tree which shelters the greatest cluster, but there are many more on and around the track in this area.
We had steady rain on our last visit to the hill but the stones look equally atmospheric when wet, the water giving an added lustre to their glossy lichen coats.
From the tree, we ascended again and suddenly emerged on the edge of the moor. There were sweeping views over the quarry face and woodland below us and yet more millstones nestling in the grass.
Owler Tor is clearly visible to the northeast. We followed a path that paralleled the road to reach the rocky outcrop which gives lovely views over the moor and surrounding countryside. Water sat in dark pools in the depressions in the rock under stormy skies.
From the tor it is easy to see the dark outline of the old packhorse track which leads across the moor towards a road. Longshaw Lodge lies beyond: it was built in 1830 as a hunting lodge by the Duke of Rutland. Now there are varied walks around it and a good National Trust cafe.
However, on this occasion we did not cross the road, but only a footbridge just before it, turning down Padley Gorge, one of the little treasures of the Peak.
This enchanting gorge has a real wild wood surrounding the rushing waters of the stream. All is lush and contorted, dripping green.
In autumn, multi coloured leaves settle on the pools and it is particularly magical. Paths follow both sides of the stream, mostly high above it, and it is a matter of simply following it downstream.
The track emerges on the road near the mill house to complete the circuit with preferably a well timed visit to the Grindleford Cafe.
NOTES.
Grindleford Station parking
53°18′19.1″N 01°37′28.73″W
Millstone cluster
53°18′55.23″N 01°37′45.17″W
Owler Tor
53°18′58.9″N 01°37′16.64″W
