The northern Derbyshire moors have some of the wildest country in Britain. This short circuit covers a little of the Pennine Way and a historic aeroplane crash. 

I do love Bleaklow despite Alfred Wainwright’s famous words about this wild expanse of moorland in northern Derbyshire.

“No one loves Bleaklow. All that get on are glad to get off.” 

I can see his point though. On a bad day it can be grim indeed, the walking more a grinding trudge of peat groughs and exposed weather.

But on a fine day there is much to love about this rolling open expanse. Surrounded by some of the biggest population density in Britain, it manages to retain its wildness; high above the conurbations which surround it, the air tastes very fresh indeed and there is an exhilaration in the empty spaces.

Over Exposed

However, not everyone escaped the moor alive. On the 3rd November, 1948, a United States Super Fortress B-29 crashed near the Trig Point on Shelf Moor.

The aeroplane had an interesting life in its 4 years of existence. Belonging to a Photographic Reconnaissance Squadron, it was called Over Exposed and had photographed the nuclear bomb tests at Bikini Atoll in 1946, as well as having taken part in the Berlin Airlift in 1948.

It was the usual pilot error scenario, the pilot seemingly descending earlier through clouds than he should have done: 10 m became the difference between life and death and 13 people died.

The retrieval of the bodies was difficult in such a remote spot. The locals helping out benefitted from the US soup kitchen which impressed the English, still accustomed to war time austerity and rationing.

However, whilst the bodies were recovered (and the £7000 company payroll in a sack), the wreckage of the aeroplane remains to this day, a melancholy scattered assortment of twisted metal, the aircraft grade aluminium still surprisingly shiny in places. There are 4 engines, wings and other pieces beyond identification whose jagged edges tell of the destructive forces they went through.

The largest surviving piece was the tail fin, but that was later destroyed as it was too visible on the moor, acting as a magnet for sightseers. Today, a small memorial is situated to one side where a thought can be spared for the crew who had been due to shortly return to America.

The Walk

From Snake Pass, we set off north on the processional route which is the Pennine Way, but left it quickly at the first rough junction. Heading west initially, the path swings north to follow the top of a steep clough with scenic views up over the moor.

The path was unkempt, soggy and very muddy – we were glad we had chosen wellies! After a dark peaty waterfall it wound on up the hill to emerge at the Higher Shelf Stones, giving us wonderful eastern views.

A final climb to the Trig Point at the top, then a hard right to the east will lead through muddy gullies to the site of the airplane crash.

We backtracked a little to the west for lunch at Lower Shelf Stones, with a view out over Manchester to Liverpool. The Welsh mountains were a blue haze – one of the bumps may have been Snowdonia.

Following rough sheep tracks north another rocky outcrop comes into view, the Hern Stones, whose all embracing 360° view appears to be beloved of sheep.

Next up on’t moor are the Wain Stones, named after Alfred Wainwright who had his love/hate relationship with Bleaklow, whilst writing a popular guide to the Pennine Way, England’s original long distance route which opened to great fanfare in 1965. It originally came through these curious rocks, whose biggest boulders seem to be poised for a kiss!

Only a little further on, the high point of the walk is reached at Bleaklow Head. This is actually on the Pennine Way and a huge stone cairn marks the spot. It is only 663 m (2077 ft) high but on the rather desolate expanse of moor that surrounds it, it is quite a landmark and I am sure no walker goes past it without a photo.

From there, it is simply a matter of following the Pennine Way south back to Snake Pass, not as easy as it sounds as the initial section seems to follow a stream bed which makes the going quite rough.

Nearing the Pass, glance back over your right shoulder for a final overview of the crash site high on the moor above. So close to the huge drop off which would have seen them safely off the moor, Over Exposed had indeed been very unlucky. 

NOTES

The Walk starts from the busy A57 on Snake Pass where there is ample parking on the verges. Coordinates 53°25′58.46″N 01°52′08.08″W.

Allow a leisurely 3 hours. 

Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer OL1. 

Coordinates for crash site:

 53°27′03.27″N 01°51′55.49″W.

Higher Shelf Stones:

53°26′59.83″N 01°52′02.66″W

Lower Shelf Stones:

53°27′01″N 01°52′16.97″W