A wonderfully varied Dartmoor walk on picturesque old tracks to Swelltor Quarry with beautiful views and Bronze Age ruins.
The weather had looked quite good when we left home, but it was raining by the time we parked just above Merrivale Bridge. The day continued showery but could not detract from this lovely walk.
Dropping down towards the bridge, we headed off south on a bridleway which followed old tracks with the distinctive Vixen Tor to our right.
We wound through a mossy wild wood where the world dripped around us and between high walls whose huge stones served as a cattle race.
Emerging onto bitumen, we followed a narrow lane to a crossroads, blinkered by the high hedges. The verdant edges were ariot with foxgloves and tiny wild strawberries.
Turning towards Criptor, an uphill climb led to a cattle grid and a track to an isolated farmhouse which huddled below the jumbled rocky slopes of Swelltor Quarry.
As the road bore left, we turned off on a path which led through a scrubby field, over a stream, and wound up to the path of the old railway line which once serviced these quarries. There were magnificent wide ranging views and the railway route could be seen winding around the hillside.
It was pleasant easy walking and we soon arrived at the quarry area, where there were some old building remains amidst the rocky landscape.
We bumbled around for a while and walked out on a branch line which still displayed some sleeper remnants. There was a cluster of huge carved corbels which were apparently carved for the old London Bridge, abandoned much as the old millstones in Derbyshire.
Rejoining the main track, we continued on. There were some traces of the original 1820’s horse tramway, built by Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt who founded Princetown. This was replaced by a steam driven railway. The quarries closed in 1956.
We paused to look at a bridge; in the middle of nowhere, it was still built with great attention to detail and finely finished.
Shortly after the ruined footing for a linesman hut we bore off the track to head down to the corner of a wall and a very wet stream crossing. The moor is absorbent, sponge like in the rain.
Our exit path was marked by an easily spotted guide stone dating back to 1700. The ‘T’ and the ‘A’ carved on its sides denote Tavistock and Ashburton.
Just beyond lay the Merrivale Antiquities, an impressive assortment of Bronze Age remains. I particularly liked the two avenues running side by side which must have covered a quarter of a mile. There was a flooded burial chamber with a damaged capstone – apparently a local farmer had cut two gate posts from it – and a stone circle beside a tall menhir or standing stone.
The road was very close by then, but hidden, so it was easy to drink in the atmosphere of this special place.
Our boots squelching, we finally dropped over the hillside and back to the carpark.
NOTES
From the Ordnance Survey pathfinder guide to Dartmoor, Walk 10. Distance 5.5 miles.
Map: Outdoor Leisure 28 Dartmoor.
Car park grid reference:
50°33′25.16″N 04°02′38.51″W