(NOTE: Thank God I knew the world of the past. Poor Uruguay was hit early by the corona virus when a society wedding guest infected 45 people – Cabo Polonio would be the perfect escape in normal times.)

Cabo Polonio enjoys almost mythical status amongst Uruguayan seaside resorts for its off-the-grid lifestyle and inaccessibility. Things aren’t as backward as they used to be, but enough of the old fishing village still exists to make it a very nice place indeed to spend some time.

Don’t believe everything you read about Cabo Polonio.  Once it probably was very isolated with little infrastructure but times they are a changing and I think many who followed the hippy trail 20 years ago may not recognize it now. 

 It is not totally the quiet fishing enclave many blogs would have one believe. Yes, tourist access is only via a truck over a sandy 7 km long track but  plenty of locals are driving in. On the southern side of the peninsula there are a lot of smart new houses, which I suspect are locally owned and replacing more mundane originals. Solar panels are providing light,  batteries are providing electricity for a hot shower and the toilets even flush.

However, that said, the place still exerts a certain wild charm. Even the ride in is an adventure: from the Terminal Puerta del Polonio parking lot on the main road, a 4×4 truck bumps slowly over the undulating sandy terrain and finishes with a quick whisk up the beach, before dropping its passengers at the edge of the village. This is the older side of town, a scattered gallimaufry of shacks and small dwellings, thrown together with little regard to aesthetics or town planning. They are colourful, higgledy piggledy and display lots of character. 

A 5 minute walk leads to the main square , merely a slightly larger open area amidst the houses but enlivened by a cluster of bars, restaurants and souvenir shops. Continuing straight on, at the end there is the Perla Hotel and Posada Maria, after which the rocky shore leads on around to the lighthouse. There are no roads, just sandy or grassy tracks and you can largely wander at will – indeed that is part of the charm.

The obvious focal point is the lighthouse, which dates back to 1881; it has 5 circular windows in its sides which are very distinctive, especially at night.  With the scattered offshore islands as an additional hazard, this coast has claimed many victims. The village is actually named after Captain Polloni who was shipwrecked in 1753 with his ship Nuestra Senora del Rosario.  In full working order, the lighthouse is open for visitors and it is well worth the climb to appreciate the extent of the sandy beaches and the settlement of Cabo Polonio below.

However, the rocks are the main attraction for the second largest colony of sea lions and seals in Uruguay: they lounge in soft sinuous poses all around the area under the lighthouse and the coastal path passes right by them. It is fun to sit and watch them: there is a constant yapping and jockeying for authority. The male sea lions can reach 300 kg and they look very impressive with their huge ruffed necks.

Continuing on around the headland, there is an area of scattered houses which enjoy wonderful views. It is worth exploring all the different building styles, looking out for quirky individualistic touches.

If you are feeling energetic, and indeed it can be difficult in such a place, there is a wonderful walk northwards 5.5 km along Playa de la Calavera, a world of big open skies and silver seas and perfect isolation. There are rocky coves at the headland to explore (watch out for the occasional nude sunbather) or ascend the huge heights of Cerro de la Buena Vista for a great overall view of the area with its surprisingly large sand dunes

Accommodation is limited and tends to be expensive – if money is no object, head to Hotel La Perla del Cabo and get a little cabana style room overlooking the beach. There is a lovely wooden verandah for scenic dining or head to Posada/Restaurant Mariemar just next door.

The hostels are a pretty ramshackle lot; the pick of the bunch is Lobo, just down from the drop off point.  Though not directly on the beach, it makes up for it with its large outside dining/bar area with a big fire ring  – great for catching up with one’s fellow travellers. The other popular hostel options are Viejo Lobo and Cabo Polonio though I found them rather small and cramped.

We actually found Martha when we arrived and rented a simple shack with double en suite, kitchen area, verandah and the obligatory hammock for $20. By the second morning we had acquired a cat which smelt decidedly fishy! Look for the green flag flying inland from Cabo Polonio Hostel and the big sign ‘Hay Pescardo’ (fish for sale) – her fishing family has been here for 40 years. Local people will quite often meet the trucks so if you are interested in this option, keep an eye out.

One of the local specialities of this coastline is Bunuelos de algas – or seaweed fritters, and they are on sale everywhere. We tried ours at the popular Lo de Dany restaurant near the main square which has a nice outdoor seating area although we were not actually that impressed with their food overall.

Eating out is also very expensive: you will probably not get away with less than $15 for a main course, so many people do choose to cook for themselves. Fish can readily be bought in the village though as far as we could tell there are only two fishing boats in residence. Support the old grocers store too, the Almacen el Templao near the bus stop – it is wonderfully old fashioned inside. Goods are weighed on an old iron scales  and it has absolutely everything.

The little village certainly grew on us. At night we slept with the sweep of the lighthouse beam lighting the room whilst breakfast on the verandah was a leisurely affair. There was no pressure to do anything or be anywhere. Come for a day, stay for a week or maybe forever, it just that sort of place.

Exchange Rate (April 2020)

£1 = 54 Uruguayan Peso