The Hunter Valley is one of the largest wine producing areas in Australia. Only about 2 hours north of Sydney, NSW, it is justifiably popular both for its rugged scenery and gourmet delights.
Vines were planted as early as the first settlements in 1826 and today the area is particularly renowned for its semillon and Shiraz varieties. With over 100 vineyards and a multitude of restaurants and cafes, the choice can be bewildering. Here are some of our favourites from a recent visit.
A Trio of Cafes
There are no end of fine dining opportunities in the Hunter Valley, but sometimes you only want a relaxed light lunch without breaking the bank – here are three characterful possibilities that fit the bill.
If you are approaching the Hunter Valley from the north then this is a handy stop.The Courtyard is a neat little cafe sitting on George Street in Singleton, otherwise known as the New England Highway in this area, so road noise can be a problem. However, take a seat inside amongst the plants and it is a pleasant relaxed cafe with seating at and on a mishmash of tables and chairs.
The menu runs from coffee to yummy banana and cacao milkshakes with a good selection of breakfast and lunch items, such as stacked open sandwiches, flatbread pizzas – I had the prosciutto, pear and parmesan version which was very good with rich caramelised onion jam – and interesting salads.
Take a while to browse in the shop before you go, with a diverse selection of furniture, homewares, cookbooks, candles and handbags.
Simply D’vine
About 5 km to the north of Cessnock, this cafe is handy if you have been shopping in Cessnock or want somewhere easy close to town.
We seemed to be getting into a floral theme on this trip: this simple cafe is buried in a far corner of a lush garden centre, but it is worth the finding. Here it is quite safe to sit outside on the small terrace, enjoying the rather kitschy faux Italian statues or the more authentically Aussie ironwork animals.
It is a nice healthy menu. I had bruschetta with pesto, piled high with a green vibrant salad and toasted seeds. Simon had a smoked salmon salad. Otherwise, it is just a nice place for coffee. As well as a lush assortment of plants, the shop stocks some interesting giant lanterns and mosaic mirrors if you have the means to get them home.
Sometimes despite all one’s best intentions, only a burger will do and the ones here are enormous and very good. Otherwise there are healthy salad options, huge mezze plates and a good range of starters.
Outside seating is along a pleasant deck overlooking a dam with a water feature, and it is a peaceful spot. It is just as good a place to pop into for a coffee and cake – try the Belgian chocolate Jaffa cake! They are also open seven days which is a bonus in a place that only too often works on weekends only.
It is also part of the Gartelmann vineyard which has an extensive wine list from the area as well as various cool climate wines from Orange, Mudgee and Rylstone. They have a distinctive wine label with a black and white magpie – these could certainly be heard burbling away, but it was a wandering free range chicken who joined us on the deck for lunch.
Nearby, check out the Binnorie Dairy with soft cow and goat cheeses made from locally sourced milk. We coincided with the truffled brie which was delicious.
A Trio of Vineyards
We managed to visit three very different vineyards at seemingly every compass point in the Hunter. Don’t worry, driving and enjoying the views are all part of the pleasure of this area. Just don’t go too wild, I find about two tastings in the afternoon all I can handle if I want to fully appreciate the experience. Take your time and chat with the people behind the bar – they will enjoy it as much as you.
A little off the beaten track on DeBeyers Road, this is one of the hidden gems of the Hunter. Their single estate 14 hectare vineyard produces one of the most awarded semillons in the region. We started with the beautifully zesty 2018 semillon and it was so good we worked our way through the entire wine list. We especially enjoyed the whites, from a fruity verdelho to the fine 2017 chardonnay, though in the end we succumbed to the charms of the 2014 reserve chardonnay ($50) for its extra buttery richness.
Their reds are also very drinkable, from the fragrant merlot to the more spicy Tri Moir, a Shiraz/merlot blend with a touch of cabernet.
The welcome was warm, the girl who looked after us knowledgeable and chatty and all in all it was a fine tasting experience
This is one of the oldest vineyards in the Hunter having been planted in 1866, though it is no longer in the original hands. It is worth a visit for the view alone: perched on top of one of the regions rolling hills, it enjoys superb 360° views out over lush vineyards and muddy dams, fading away to distant tiered hills. There are cottages to rent here where you might never pull yourself away from the view, but we were here for the wine.
While not as immediately outstanding as McLeish, they have a wide range and an extensive tasting will turn up a few gems. My policy of only drinking the regional varieties fell by the wayside when I was given the 2013 Wrattonbully merlot cabernet from the Coonawarra area: a full bodied red, it had a hint of eucalyptus on the nose and tongue – very Australian!
On a similar theme, the 2016 Lighthorseman blend of cabernet sauvignon from NSW, merlot from Orange and shiraz from the Hunter is perfect everyday drinking for $23. Interestingly, the wine club members chose the exact blend each year and it is one of the best sellers!
Their variety also allows for some interesting comparisons, as between the Hunter Valley shiraz and the cool climate version from Orange: both quite different but both very drinkable. We were also talked into an unusual vin de vie which would make a superb apero in France. Actually produced in a triangular bottle from France, this unfermented wine is mixed with brandy to produce a rich blend with a long toffee aftertaste ($45)
The rugged rocky yellow outcrop of the Brokenback Range towers over this vineyard whose cellar door resembles a Tuscan villa, all big exposed stone in a warm honey colour. It is at the northern end of the Hunter, at Broke, but it is a pleasant drive to or from it, with many other vineyard options en route.
All the grapes are grown at the vineyard and the wines made on the estate. There is a $10 tasting charge for 8 wines, refundable on purchase which at least encourages people to buy!
There was quite an extensive wine menu. We started with the semillions which we found quite acidic and actually ended up preferring the reds. There was a peculiar Repasso Shiraz which had been cellared then twice blended over the skins of later vintages which was interesting but rather tannic. I much preferred their smooth cabernet sauvignon ($50) and, my guilty pleasure, a luscious botrytis semillon ($25).
The restaurant is only open from Thursday evenings which is the night to go as they have a locals evening with a cheaper menu before the weekend really gets under way. The emphasis is on fresh produce from the garden though it is one of those annoying menus that just lists the ingredients. Two courses start at $65 and there are 5 and 8 course tasting menus from $115, with the option of wine pairing.
Of course the above are only the tip of the iceberg – happy exploring!
