Derbyshire has many popular cycling trails, but this little 5.5 miles canal side path from Cromford is a hidden gem. Largely shaded by trees, it is an excellent autumn ride.

Cromford, huddled Derbyshire’s Derwent Valley,  is a low key UNESCO site but it was here that Britain’s Industrial Revolution started with the world’s first ever water powered spinning mill. Sir Richard Arkwright built the village from 1776  for his mill workers and it is attractively sited around a large pond.

Cromford Mills were built between 1771 and 1791 and the restored site now repays browsing with info boards amidst the original buildings as well as a variety of shops and a sunny café.  Just a little way down on the other side of the road is the Cromford Canal which from 1794 shipped coal and cotton to the valley, taking away limestone, gritstone, lead and iron. It was at its busiest in the 1830’s but the railways started to break its monopoly in the 1840’s.

It was ingeniously engineered to cut through the Derbyshire countryside on one level for 12 miles and played an important role in carrying the limestone and coal used in iron production between Cromford and the Erewash Canal at Langley Mill, a total length of 14.5 miles. The iron for St Pancras station originated in this area. However, the Butterley tunnel closed in 1900 due to mining subsidence and the whole canal was abandoned in 1944.

In 2002 the Friends of the Cromford Canal were formed to preserve what was left of the canal and today we are lucky enough to be able to follow the best preserved section for 5.5 miles from Cromford to Ambergate, near where it suddenly comes to an abrupt halt. However what remains is truly delightful, with shady woods and atmospheric low bridges. Despite it running tightly parallel with the A6 and the railway line, it feels very far removed from the bustle of everyday life.

A site of Special Scientific Interest, the banks are thick with reeds and grasses, a haven for a variety of wildlife. We saw coots and moorhens plus a swan family. Apparently there are also rare water voles and even grass snakes, though being Australian, Simon was happy not to see any of those.

We started cycling at Cromford Wharf where there is parking and the jolly Wheatcroft’s Café. Due to its accessibility, expect to share the canal bank with lots of walkers. The route sets off beside a long wall before emerging briefly into open countryside.

Within a mile, we reached High Peak Junction where the Cromford and High Peak Railway once linked the Cromford Canal with the Peak Forest Canal, 34 miles to the northwest at Whaley Bridge. At the time, it was the highest railway in the world and it was a two day journey between the two. It created a vital link between the coalfields of Derbyshire and the industries of Manchester and was built along canal lines, with nine steep inclines linking flat areas. Wagons were pulled up these by engines, of which the best preserved is at Middleton Top, about 2 miles away.

It is a pretty spot with nice seating for picnicking beside the canal and a little café. The 1830 workshops have been restored and there is even an old train wagon to explore. There is parking and plentiful walking in the area if you prefer two feet to two wheels.

Carrying on, one comes in quick succession to an old wharf shed, the Leawood Viaduct and the Leawood Pumphouse – the 1849 pump engine can still lift 4 tonnes of water from the River Derwent to the Cromford Canal at each stroke. As an interesting aside, Lea Hurst, Florence Nightingale’s childhood home, stands on the hills above here.

The canal soon narrows to limpid green waters with low bridges overgrown with mosses and hanging ferns. At times the vegetation feels almost tropical with giant flamboyant leaves and overhanging trees: it is especially delightful when the autumn colours come out in their richest hues.

We had one small road crossing at Whatstandwell where it is possible to detour to the Family Tree Pub. It isn’t much further on to the end where the canal is suddenly blocked off and seemingly disappears. Peering through a wire fence, there is only an industrial estate to be seen, though a footpath continues on. However, we turned around and headed back, the views just as enchanting in reverse.

It is easy cycling alongside the canal and only an 11 mile return trip but I would highly recommend it. It is easy to forget the origins of these canals and their important roles in the history of Britain so this is an interesting combination of watery delights and industrial heritage – it is only a shame that the rest of it is either lost or derelict.