After the desert, the cloud forest. Calilegua National Park is just to the north east of Salta and has one of the most diverse habitats for flora and fauna in Argentina. We headed into the high mountainous countryside to explore the forest.

After a week exploring the spectacular but very arid Quebrada de Humamacha, a cloud forest was just what we needed! Ironically it wasn’t very far from there as the crow – or condor – flies – lying on the eastern side of the ranges from that valley, but they are a world apart in diversity.

The Yungas cloud forest is home to 60 % of Argentina’s birds and 33 % of its mammals – some 400 and 100 species respectively and is one of the country’s most diverse biological ecosystems. As we drove northwards from Jujuy, the mountains appeared mysteriously ahead, their dark slopes rising to great cloud garlanded heights.

The easiest access to the Yungas is via Calilegua National Park, some 170 km northeast of Salta and just off the Ruta 34 about 8 km north of Libertador General San Martin. The park was created in 1979 and covers 76,307 hectares. It has a marked rainy season in the summer months when 800 – 1800 mm of rain might fall – this makes it quite a sticky time of year to visit. The annual average temperature is 17 degrees , but in summer this can reach into the 20’s. The road into the park is rather unprepossessing dirt, but soon you are enveloped in dense vegetation and soaring trees with great lianas and hanging mosses.

We arrived late and were then sidetracked by an enthusiastic guide discussing rugby with Simon! The entrance area has some neat metal sculptures of the animals you might see – or more likely not see, as the larger mammals are very elusive and I think you would have to be very lucky and spend a huge amount of time in the forest to spot a jaguar.

We based ourselves at the Aguas Negras campsite just inside the park. This is a simple free campsite with nothing more than basic showers and toilets, but it offers a nice view over the wide stoney bed of the San Lorenzo river, running very brown at this stage and not black at all. 

It was strange to go to sleep with the incessant chirping of the cicadas after the silence of the desert and then the next morning we were awoken by glorious bird song. Even these proved quite hard to spot but the flashy Purple Crested Jays were happy to come down and see what we were having for breakfast.

There are numerous hiking trails within the forest and it being a rainforest, they are quite hot and sweaty. Ranging from 10 minutes to 5 hours, most leave within easy reach of the Ranger’s Station and they are quite obvious and easy to follow.  We started with the Lagunita Trail which took about 2 hours; soon after leaving the road, there is a tall tower which gives one an overview of the forest and a platform for bird watching.

Further along the track we found the little lagoon and some grebes in a tree, after which it drops down to the Aguas Negras stream. The streams within the park may be your best bet for signs of wildlife: keep an eye open for any prints in the soft sides and banks.

Alas, we were a little short on time and did not explore as far as we would have liked. We did drive to the far edge of the park where there is a Monolitho at the Abra de Canas pass at 1,700 m.  It was a dirt road all the way but although it wound scarily up the mountain under steep slopes, it was actually quite a good road though fairly slow going. We were certainly immersed within the forest but by the time we reached the pass, we were also in the cloud, which is quite normal in these climes. 

Having spoken to the locals, it would be well worth carrying on the extra 20 km to the little hamlet of San Francisco which lies outside the park at 1,500 m.  It has a church and simple accomodation and there is great walking in the area; I liked the sound of the hot springs in the Jordan River and the nearby waterfalls, but the small village of Alto Calilegua would also be interesting to visit.

If one had  the time, it is possible to continue further up the valley to Valle Colorado and from there continue through to the Quebrada de Humamacha either on foot or horseback, a trip  of about 4 days which would surely be an adventure!

While we were up in this rather off the beaten track area, we fitted in a relaxing afternoon at the Termas de Caimancito, about 40 minutes further north. These amazing hot springs are generated at 1,500 m in the earth and emerge at 70,000 litres an hour, reputedly having various theraputic properties. A man in the glorious huge hot pool, which is set amongst lush gardens and trees, told me it was very good for the bones.

The place has 3 large pools, none colder than tepid; one is covered in a shady roof though if you are feeling really brave, you can try the fugon. This is where the hot water emerges from the earth and the small tub is jolly hot!

NOTES

Calilegua National Park

Park entry is free, as is the basic campsite at the entrance. A bus leaves daily at 8.30 am from Libertador General San Martin for the park and San Francisco, returning in the late afternoon. As well as providing access to the further hamlets, it is a useful tool for accessing the Negrito Stream walk which leaves from the other ranger station at Mesada de las Colmenas (13 km / 1,150 m) and drops back to the entrance via the Negrito Stream.

Termas de Caimancito

The baths are 195 km from Salta and 40 km north of Libertador General San Martin on Ruta 34, then Provincial Route 1. Entrance is AR$200 each for the day – it closes at 6 pm in the winter and 7 pm in the summer. There are shady tables, seats and BBQs for relaxing, as well as hot showers and toilets. There is no accommodation unfortunately: the nearest campsite is a few km back on the river.