Cheap flights now allow easy access to the magnificent Iguazu Falls in Argentina. We combined them with a loop along the Parana River to visit the Jesuit missions of Argentina and Paraguay, returning through Brazil to see the northern side of the falls.

The skies were aflame when we landed at Puerto Iguazu and I am reminded of the recent reports of the Amazon burning. This is nothing new: 28 years previously I had visited the area and taken a helicopter ride above the famous falls. My diary of the time had remarked on the endless green forest and how it was in imminent danger of being lost to a McDonalds fuelled farming orgy. Rather like the pogrom of the Jews in the Nazi era, we were aware at the time. Yet deforestation is still ongoing at an ever faster rate: we cannot claim ignorance in retrospect.

Today, illicit ranching is the least offender: of more concern is the widespread logging for timber, clearance by subsistence homesteaders looking for farmland, and the mining industries. To the casual observer it is not always even obvious as often the stretch along the roadside is uncleared, leaving a curtain to conceal what is happening further back in the forest.

IGUAZU FALLS (ARGENTINA)

Though tree cover may now be reduced in the area and the pressure ever increasing from a tourism industry intent on seeing one of the recently declared ‘7 New Natural Wonders of the World’, somehow Iguazu Falls rises above all this. Dividing Brazil and Argentina along the Iguazu or Iguacu river, depending on which side of the border one’s on, they tumble off the Parana Plateau before joining the Parana River 23 km downstream

For they truly are magnificent, awe inspiring, breathtaking. To stand in the thundering roar above the Garganta del Diablo, or Devil’s Throat, is to experience the forces of nature at their most elemental. The water falls over the edge in great billowing curtains, the myriad of lesser cascades submerged into a bottomless gorge of spray and spume, where only the ever graceful swifts dart with impunity. No one could fail to be unmoved by their power and sheer beauty.

In prosaic fashion, we based ourselves in Puerto Iguazu, joining the merry throng on the 30 minute pilgrimage by local bus out to Las Cataractas. After a short wait for tickets, we bypassed the train queue by taking the little Sendero Verde, a 650 m leafy short cut to the first train stop, from where the paths for the upper and lower tracks leave.

We started with the Circuito Inferior, dropping down steeply through the forest to emerge at a small cafe area. Little black capuchin monkeys were cavorting gaily and one quickly zoned in on an empanada. We were impressed: he knew exactly how to get inside the packaging and retired to a nearby branch to tuck into his prize. 

There is a surprising amount of wildlife to be seen. Coatis, long tailed, small and cat like, are everywhere and if they are not trying to steal your lunch, it can be quite amusing to watch them foraging along the jungle floor in family groups. We also saw caiman and turtles from the board walks as well as giant catfish, and the bird life was prolific, including superb toucan sightings.

Our first waterfalls were Las Dos Hermanas, the two sisters amidst the leafy jungle which on their own would have been worth a trip. Old stairs showed they once had a bathing pool but now they were closed off. 273 waterfalls to go! We wound on round the walkway to find the Bossetti Falls, the most spectacular on this section. A rushing white wall was the inevitable backdrop for the ubiquitous selfie but wait a few minutes and a slot always opens up.  In the background, the rushing torrent of the San Martin Falls; once it was possible to visit the nearby Isla San Martin, but it would appear that this is no longer an option: the trails look unkempt and unused.

We could not complete the circuito inferior when we were there as a landslip had closed part of the track but it finished at another magnificent viewpoint. Indeed, this is common here: each turn of the track reveals yet another wonderful view.

We climbed back up to visit the Paseo Superior which was a series of boardwalks that followed the tops of the waterfalls, crossing the fast flowing river and nearing the edges where the river vanished in a white swirl. It ended just above the San Martin waterfall, one of the park’s biggest, with a good view along the chain.  Late in the day, for one glorious moment we were alone.

The final train stop brings you to the Garganta del Diablo boardwalk which is a lovely 1100 m walk above the river to the most spectacular viewpoint of all. We were told the river was only running at about 30 % of its capacity when we visited but it was still astonishing. Apparently the record is 35 million litres of water a second in 1983 and I would have loved to see it, but even now there was an immense quantity of water which vanished over the edge to an unseen destination about 80 m below, clouds of water droplets and spray obscuring the bottom of the gorge. It was quite mesmerizing to watch the play of water and light; I have heard it compared to a ballet though I was more reminded of a dramatic Gotterdammerung with a crescendo of thundering water.

The following day we went back and did it all again, but I don’t think anyone would ever get bored of this place. We also walked the Macuco Trail, a gentle 3.5 km through the forest to a high viewpoint over the trees and river. Stairs then drop steeply to the Arrechea Waterfall where it is possible to swim or sit under the waterfall. We were amused by the many locals having a mate break. – they drink this local beverage rather as we drink tea and it is rare to see an Argentinian without his Thermos. This trail is a welcome respite from the hoards and when you return, note that the trail emerges by the train station. If you want to take the train on to the Garganta, go straight onto the platform and jump the queue!

THE JESUIT MISSIONS OF ARGENTINA

Leaving Puerto Iguazu, we took a bus 4 1/2 hours south to the sleepy little village of San Ignacio. A 20 minute walk from the bus station bought us to the San Ignacio Adventure Hostel with its lovely large gardens and swimming pool. Soon we were immersed and I really felt we were on holiday at last. I had wanted to visit the UNESCO missions of this area since 1991 when our overland driver had claimed the Chaco in Paraguay a more interesting route, so bypassing them.

The Jesuits were one of the success stories of South America; they initially arrived in Brazil in 1540, but starting in 1609, they established some 30 missions spread out between Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Completely self sufficient, they utilised the Guarani native workforce in a form of benevolent slavery, producing yerbe mate (the local tea like beverage mentioned previously which is actually made from a holly related shrub) and tobacco, as well as  cattle and their hides, textiles, cotton, sugar and even musical instruments. However they did go to some lengths to educate the natives, teaching them how to read and write not only in their own language but also in Spanish and Latin. Musical expression and art were also encouraged. All were provided for and they offered protection against the colonial system and slave traders.

In protecting the missions from these frequent raids, the Jesuits created a large standing army and it was their very power that ultimately created their downfall. Colonial settlers resented their monopoly of the Guarani workforce, as well as their cornering the market in yerba mate and tobacco. Spain decided to curtail their power and in 1767 all the Jesuits were expelled from South America. Though the Franciscans initially took over some of the missions, they could not speak the language of the Indians and they ultimately failed, leaving them to fall into ruin.

San Ignacio Mini

Originally founded in Brazil in 1610, this mission was moved several times due to raids, finally coming to rest here in 1631. Constructed like all the missions in a mixture of basalt rock and sandstone, it was a complete country estate. On entering, there were a series of six to ten adjoining one roomed structures, each of which housed a Guarani family. 

Today these are well preserved and fronted by tall stone columns which once supported the verandahs. They neatly surround the great Plaza des Armas, framing the huge facade of the church which still stands proudly.  It was designed by the Italian architect, Brazanelli; in time the missions developed their own distinctive style which came to be known as Guarani Baroque. 

Though much has crumbled, the fine richly carved facade with its delicate angels still exists; to the right can be seen the insignia of the Jesuit order and it is not hard to imagine how magnificent it all once was. There are carved portals, magnificent balustrades and stairs and finely wrought floors in ceramic tiles. Beyond the cloisters lay another square of workshops, as well as orchards and farming land. The facade is best viewed in the morning when the sun hits its face and highlights the rich red hue of its stonework.

The ruins were not rediscovered until 1897 but today they have been well restored and it is a joy to amble in their fine confines. Many feel that the Jesuits created a Utopia on the South American continent where all worked and lived for mutual benefit and protection and it is not hard to appreciate their well ordered and very successful regime.

Later we returned for the sound and light show which was utterly enchanting. Loosely telling the story of an Indian family, the figures are projected onto a fine water spray and the end result is quite ethereal and ghostly. The final battle scene when all the walls around the plaza are utilised is superb: don’t miss it!

Santa Ana

Originally founded in the Tape region in 1633, this mission was transferred, along with its 2000 native inhabitants, to this site in 1660. Centred on  a large square, the church once stood 80 m long and again was designed by the Italian architect Brazanelli, whose body was buried beneath the high altar.

The site is fairly ruined but atmospheric with rampant vines and jungle growth. It follows the same layout as San Ignacio, with the Indian houses surrounding the Plaza. Some fine steps lead up to the church but the walls are delapidated and there is no decoration. The original cemetery is overlaid by an eerie modern one in a state of picturesque ruin. To the other side, most of the Jesuits living quarters are buried  and little remains of the workshops. However it is worth checking out the old orchard area to the rear where there are some interesting irrigation channels and a little reservoir, still with running water. The rainwater was collected from the roofs.

Nuestra Senora de Loreto

Arriving here on a Sunday, we managed to coincide with a major religious festival, so we were able to get some fresh empanadas for lunch from one of the many food stalls. Luckily the ruins were quiet and we were able to wander undisturbed.

This site was founded in 1632 and was one of the most important of all: by 1733, it employed 6000 Guarani and even had the first printing press to be found in South America. It also has the distinction of being the only mission where latrines were found.

Today little remains standing unfortunately, just tumbled mounds showing where many of the buildings once stood. The large church retains some walls and we found another smaller chapel a little way off in the woods that was well preserved. The latrines were pointed out with great pride by the friendly guardian and indeed they exhibited fine trenches with some nice chevron tiled flooring. The site is largely worth a wander for its pleasant woodland atmosphere and its niche in the history of the missions, as the ruins are fairly meagre.

THE JESUIT MISSIONS OF PARAGUAY

We opted for the soft option on our trip from San Ignacio into Paraguay, joining an organised tour with Tierra Colorado Turismo which for $50 each drove us to Posadas, over the bridge into Paraguay at Encarnacion and 30 km back north on the other side of the Parana river to Trinidad. Unfortunately we had coincided with a long weekend and there was a long queue of cars waiting to cross from Posadas to Encarnacion which is a popular low tax shopping destination for the Argentinians. It was quite a hot 1 ½ hour wait.

It was quite an expensive diversion all round as Simon, being Australian, needed a visa, which we had bought in London for £127. However we were on a mission, literally: the trip was all about the two great UNESCO mission ruins of Paraguay at Trinidad. These had been designated such in 1993, 10 years later than the Argentine ones we had just visited, only a short distance away on the other side of the Parana river as the crows flies.

Jesus del Tavarangue

Our taxi initially took us to Jesus del Tavarangue, which is 12 km to the west of Trinidad. This great church was never actually finished as the Jesuits were expelled while still building it, so it stands today as a startling unfinished project. While the exterior walls are virtually at full height, the great columns in the nave remain truncated: they are atmospheric to wander through and there is some fine carving at the altar end.

It is sited on a low hill top so there is a nice view from the back of the site. Follow the footprint of the foundations in the grass and imagine what might have been. The front of the church is especially spectacular with its Moorish style doors and carved crests.

Trinidad del Parana

Dating back to 1706, Trinidad del Paraná  is the most complete of all the missions, though some of the high walls around the altar are now looking distinctly shaky. The great front is largely missing but the interior walls still have a fabulous amount of decoration; there are niches with statues, a beautifully carved baptismal font and even a small crypt. Around the altar, there are lovely friezes of angels playing musical instruments and the doorways are also richly carved.

The square containing the workshops has a little museum which only seems to open for groups but if you manage to tag along you will see a wide eyed assortment of cherubs and stone carvings. One ceramic piece has a sketch of the church: it is the only known representation from life of the building as it once stood. Keep a close eye out for the cute burrowing owls that live here.

There are also many native dwelling houses with heavy stone arcades and a little bell tower which is now unfortunately closed. The usual peace prevails, there seems to be few visitors and you are free to wander at will.

With some extra time in hand, we also visited a nearby mirador, a peculiar round building, which had a super view over the countryside with the Trinidad mission laid out clearly below. Drop over the hill on the other side of the road to discover the Eco Park Ita Cajon where the stone was quarried for the mission. The stepped sides of the hill reveal how much stone was removed and there are some amusing carved wooden mythical figures scattered around. The quiet streets of the town are a pleasant place to wander so it is a worthwhile excursion and you are never far from an ice cream shop. Keep an eye out for the beautifully carved wooden street signs.

ONTO BRAZIL

After a final breakfast in Trinidad, we hiked down to the main road and caught the El Tigre bus to Ciudad del Este, a low tax shopping mecca just across the Parana River from Brazil. It was a double deck long distance bus and we had a big soft seat and a nice ride for the 250 km north through rolling green countryside which appeared heavily farmed. We had noticed that Paraguay even seems to have its own TV channel devoted to farming.

Many blogs are pretty disparaging about Ciudad del Este but when we rolled in on a sunny afternoon, it looked perfectly pleasant. The flame trees were a riot of colour and I didn’t see one person carrying a gun, though there were plenty of amusing inflatable pool toys for sale beside the road – I thought the toucan version was a nice local touch. The bus station was spacious and quiet and we even had time to grab an empanada before boarding an Easy Bus towards Foz. 

This rather ramshackle local affair bounced its way towards the border, the roads getting progressively busier but still quite friendly looking. While they waited for customers we ducked into the Paraguayan immigration office and got our exit stamp. We then drove on to the Friendship Bridge which took us over the Parana to Foz de Iguacu and Brazil.

Once again we had to get off the bus to get our Brazilian entry stamp. This time the bus didn’t wait for us but drove off with a cheery wave. We walked off the bridge and rapidly found a taxi which took us the last 3 km to our downtown Katharina Hostel for only $5. It materialised that the taxi driver was an old friend of the man on reception so we were happy to have bought them together again. We were able to change money and trying not to get our obrigados mixed up with our gracias’s we headed off to collapse in the air conditioning of our room.

After a welcome-back-to-Brazil caipirinha that evening that tasted as good as I remembered, we sampled the local churrascaria restaurant where in addition to the all-you-can-eat food bars, waiters circulated with joints of meat on giant skewers, carving pieces off at the table. We enjoyed the richly marinated cuts of prime steak and were amazed how good pineapple tasted when cooked in the same fashion.

We ambled back to the cosy bar at the hostel, pleasantly surprised at how friendly the Brazilians are – and they speak English which the Argentinians avoid on principle. We were taken by their joie de vivre and I think a future exploration of Brazil would be worthwhile.

IGUACU FALLS (BRAZIL)

After just about working out the Argentinian spelling for Iguazu, now it was different on the Brazilian side. We took a local bus which trundled slowly along to deposit us at the park entrance. There was a queue to pay and then another queue for the bus which took us into the park; we chose to get off at the final stop and work our way backwards to the second stop which is below the strikingly pink Belmond Hotel, a beautiful 5 star luxury hotel and the only one within the park.

Checking out the cafe at the end which overlooks the river just before the falls, we found a neat little wooden boat perched near the edge which was very photogenic. A little further, a lift took us down a level so that we were face to face with the great Brazilian falls. Swifts darted in the spume and though not quite as dramatic as the Garganta del Diablo, it wasn’t far behind.

The boardwalk finally led us out into the eye of the storm, over the river and onto a lookout point that looked directly upstream into the Garganta. Although 80% of the falls are on the Argentinian side (I heard one guide point out that Brazil has more forest!), the viewpoint from this side does allow an appreciation of the whole, with virtually all the 2.7 km stretch visible. It is all stunningly beautiful and offers a different, but no less fine, perspective.

The walkway on the Brazilian side is so much shorter that we were finished by early afternoon, giving us time to pop into the Parque das Aves bird park virtually opposite the entrance to the waterfalls. This was started by Anna and Dennis Croucamp in 1994 and now concentrates on protecting some 150 threatened species from the Atlantic rain forests. The walkways meander through 16 hectares of natural forest and the bird displays are very well done; there are paths through several huge cages that allow a close up experience: I especially liked the multitude of macaws which were fascinating to watch and the ever splendid toucans. In the butterfly house, keep a close watch for the tiny humming birds that live there.

Squaring the Circle

It was only left to us to return to Argentina. After a leisurely breakfast and a farewell to the cat we walked 5 minutes up the road to get the international bus just behind the urban bus terminal. This is the only time I can see the advantage of a tour: again, getting out for Brazilian immigration, we were left behind by the bus. However, it is easy enough to flag down the next one and this one actually waited at the Argentine side.

Lunch at our favourite coffee shop was followed by the shuttle to the airport and the end of an enjoyable week that had covered three countries – I would recommend this circuit to anyone, a perfect blend of historical ruins and one of the world’s greatest waterfalls – in short, mission accomplished!

NOTES

Getting There

We flew to Buenos Aires from London Gatwick with Norwegian Air (£450 return) and onwards with them to Puerto Iguazu on the Argentinian side of the falls (£85 return). It would hardly be cheaper in a bus and it is at least 18 hours to Buenos Aires! Recently Norwegian have sold their Argentinian arm, so another airline will shortly be taking over the route.

Puerto Iguazu & Iguazu Falls

The falls are open from 8 am until 6pm with last entry at 4.15pm. Entrance is A$800 each with a 50% discount for the 2nd day if you get your ticket stamped before you leave. Rio Uruguay runs buses to the ruins every 20 minutes from the central bus station in Puerto Iguazu (A$720 return). 

I would advise two days. We were lucky in that it was quite cloudy on our first day, yet brilliant sunshine on our second. This also gives you a chance for greater appreciation and time to do the Macuco walk which is well worth it.

There are many picnic spots and food outlets in the park. Drinking water taps are also available. The Devil’s Throat is at its best at about 3pm so save the best until last.

We stayed at the Poramba Hostel which was quiet, leafy and good value. A basic ensuite double room was A$1160. It is a 10 minute slightly hilly walk from the bus station in the opposite direction from the restaurant strip. The El Arborl Real coffee shop on the corner opposite the bus station is very good for lunch and coffee and there is a popular burger van on the restaurant strip on Avenue Cordoba. 

The Argentine Missions

The little town of San Ignacio makes a good base for exploring the Jesuit missions. Buses leave frequently for Posadas from the bus station at Puerto Iguazu  and will stop en route- we travelled with Crucero del Norte which took 4 ½ hours and cost A$590.

The San Ignacio Mini mission is in the middle of town so easily accessible. The turnoff to Loreto is 9.5 km south on Ruta 12 then the village is another 2.5 km to the east. Santa Ana is 17 km south on Ruta 12 then another 750m walk to the east. Frequent buses can be flagged down which will drop you by the turnoffs, but then you have to walk (though you may find a taxi at Santa Ana). From the San Ignacio bus station to the Loreto turnoff cost A$80, from Loreto turnoff to Santa Ana was A$30 and back from Santa Ana to San Ignacio was A£50. If you don’t want the hassle, taxis or organised tours can be arranged in San Ignacio. A day tour of the two outer missions, a parilla lunch and a visit to some nearby wetlands cost $40 when we were there.

Entrance to the missions cost A$270 which covers all three for 15 days. The sound and light show is also A$270 – times seem to vary so check locally. Headphones can be borrowed on the gate with an English translation.

We stayed at San Ignacio Adventure Hostel which was excellent value with twin en suite rooms at A$765, including air con and TV. There is a great pool and hammocks in the big garden. Camping is also possible.

Tours of the local area or to the missions in Paraguay ($50 per person for the day including lunch) can be organised through Tierra Colorada Turismo on Ruta 12 by the town’s entrance archway.

The Paraguayan Missions

These are easily visited on a day trip from San Ignacio with Tierra Colorada Turismo (see above). We used their tour as an easy way to reach Trinidad. Otherwise, the option is walk to the San Ignacio bus station, get a bus to Posadas, then get a bus to Encarnacion in Paraguay and from there get a bus to Trinidad (anything going towards Ciudad del Este will drop you off).

The Jesús del Tavarangué ruins lie 12 km from Trinidad; the turnoff is at Trinidad, by a petrol station where the northbound bus will drop you off.  Taxis can be found at this junction.

The Trinidad ruins are right in town. Both are covered by the same ticket which costs PG25,000.  Unfortunately we didn’t coincide with the evening sound and light show which happens from Thursday through to Sunday – it is supposed to be quite atmospheric.

We stayed at the Posada Maria which is literally only 50 m from the entrance to the ruins. A smart double ensuite was PG200,000 which included an excellent breakfast. Evening meals were also available but were rather dodgier.

El Tigre runs regular services between Encarnacion and Ciudad del Este and vice versa. A ticket from Trinidad to Ciudad del Este cost PG60,000 per person. Flag the bus down on the main road: northwards by the Jesus turnoff, southwards 100 m further back by Trinidad town archway.

The bus ends at the city terminal 2 km south of Ciudad del Este town centre, from where there are frequent buses to Foz de Iguacu (PG11,000). Tell them to stop at immigration for the necessary stamps, though they may not wait- if  not, jump on the next one, or on the Brazilian side, walk 100 m to find a taxi into town (BR17).

Foz de Iguacu & Iguacu Falls

We stayed at Hostel Katharina, beautifully situated near the bus station and some great eating places. A simple double ensuite was BR120 and they have a super little outside/inside bar with a cool cat: caipirinhas recommended but be warned, if you order the pizza, it does arrive by motorbike!

The Del Rey Quality Hotel almost next door is a great mid range option with the advantage of a panoramic pool. The only hotel within the National Park, the beautiful colonial style Belmond Hotel has all the amenities and service one would expect of a 5 star hotel and exclusive out-of-hours access to the falls to boot.

There are two excellent churrascarias within 2 minutes walk: Gaucho which is BR39 per person and Bufalo Branco, over twice as expensive. Locals claim the meat is much better at the latter, but we had no complaints with the brilliant value all you could eat bar and meat at Gaucho.

The Panificadora Doce Pao Restaurante on the same strip has excellent pastries and is a popular cheap and cheerful spot for good value meals at around the BR20 – 40 mark.

Iguacu Falls on the Brazilian side are open from 09.00 to 17.00. There are frequent buses which leave from the urban bus station (BR4) to the park and back.

The Parque das Aves is open every day from 8.30 to 5 pm; basic entry is BR45,000 though there are backstage options which are more expensive.

International buses run frequently to Argentina from behind the urban bus station. It cost us BR11 and BR9 as we had to get another at the border when the first one did not wait at Brazilian immigration!

Exchange Rates (November 2019)

Argentina: £1 = 77

Paraguay: £1 = 8,353

Brazil: £1 = 5.4

CAIPIRINHA RECEIPE

• 1/2 lime, quartered
• 1 teaspoon white sugar
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces cachaca
• 1 cup ice cubes
• In a large rocks glass squeeze and drop in 2 eighths of lime. Add sugar, crush and mix with a spoon. Pour in the cachaca and plenty of ice. Stir well.