From one extreme to the other: this is a varied and rather hilly walk from the kiss-me-quick delights of Matlock Bath to the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution at Cromford.
Following my usual policy of free parking away from the towns, I started this walk at Starkholmes, just opposite the attractive White Lion Inn.
The path dropped down through fields and woods to emerge at the Matlock Bath train station. We were sidetracked here by the Whistlestop Café and enjoyed an early coffee in the sun outside the café, which is owned by the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust – nothing is any cheaper, but at least it is going to a good cause. There is a nice little shop too with a good book selection and some cool black and white Derbyshire mugs with local sayings and sights adorning them.
A shady path followed the river until we crossed a bridge and emerged onto the main strip of Matlock Bath. The town, nestling within the steep Derwent gorge, became a popular spa resort in the 19th century but sadly the baths are now part of the aquarium. I find it rather like a landlocked seaside resort: there are amusement arcades, sweet and ice cream shops and at least eight fish and chip restaurants. Some motorcycle clothing shops complete the picture and indeed it is a popular pit stop for motorcyclists, especially at weekends. If there in the autumn, the Illuminations are a charming family spectacle with brightly lit, decorated floats parading on the river at night
We soon left this behind, climbing steeply up narrow old stone steps behind the Fishpond Hotel through mossy woods. We came out at the little hamlet of Upperwood with some charming narrow roads and little country cottages – one was even selling homemade jams.
The path continued through a wood before dropping down to Cromford, where we lingered at the Scarthin Bookshop:- this super bookshop has both second hand and new books with a huge and inspiring travel selection. Having listened to the hugely entertaining Ranulph Fiennes on tour the previous evening, I now bought one of his books plus another by Tim Cope about his epic riding trip through Mongolia – not the most sensible purchases with a big hill ahead!
Cromford came to fame in 1771 when Sir Richard Arkwright established the first water powered cotton mill, so kick starting the Industrial Revolution. Using water from the river Derwent, he built a canal and later a railway to transport the cotton, as well as providing a new community to attract workers. We picnicked on benches overlooking the village pond, accompanied by a friendly black cat, before we headed on uphill. We checked out the 3-storey North Street houses built by Arkwright in 1776-7 before heading off on Bedehouse Lane for the long uphill slog to Black Rocks.
These huge rounded gritstone boulders provided a bird’s eye view over Cromford, the incisions on their surfaces telling of many others who had visited before us. The area had once been used for lead mining but is now a climbing mecca. Underneath its slopes, the High Peak Trail now follows the course of the old Cromford and High Peak Railway which closed in 1967.
After a short walk on this we diverted across an open hillside with superb views over Cromford and finally dropped down again, crossing the main road and coming out opposite Arkwright’s Mill with many original 18th century mill buildings. The complex is gradually being restored and there is now an assortment of shops within the central courtyard which make for pleasant browsing. The old water wheels are gone but their course can still be seen and there is a sunny café.
We stopped for another coffee at the little Wheatcroft’s Wharf café opposite the Mill. The café sell mugs with otters on and I asked the lady if there were indeed otters.
‘No, only ducks.’ She replied and this was true: as we sipped our creamy lattes on the outside benches, there must have been about 60 of them lining the canal banks – I think they actually need an otter but if you like ducks, there is duck food on sale in the café.
The Church was unfortunately closed though most of the Arkwright graves are outside; there was one of an early aviator who died in 1915. The clear river ran below and on the opposite bank, Willersley Hall: Sir Richard Arkwright lived in a house within the mill complex but started building this mansion on the other side of the river which was unfinished at his death. His son moved into the house in 1796. The family never came back after the first World War and the estate was broken up and sold to a Methodist group. It is still a hotel today and you can call in for afternoon tea.
We had a final mile long climb back to Starkholmes on an rather busy road but again enjoyed great views over Matlock Bath.
NOTES
This walk can be found in the Pathfinder Guide to the Peak District: ‘Cromford and Matlock Bath’. It is about 6 miles long: allow 3 hours. Maps: Landranger 119 (Buxton and Matlock) or Explorer Map OL24 (The Peak District – White Peak area). There are great refreshment stops in Matlock Bath and Cromford and also a little cafe under Black Rocks on the High Peak Trail.
