Fremantle may be Perth’s port city, but it has arguably more historic character, with great museums, foodie delights and even a beach or two.

We drove from Sydney to Adelaide, then took the Indian Pacific train across the Nullarbor to Perth, a distance of over 4000 km – then we didn’t even go into Perth.

Admittedly it looked very nice as we skirted round its edges, all sparkling blue water, white yachts and clean cut buildings. But then travel is all about decisions, choices and time – and we decided that the quirky charms of Fremantle were the bigger draw.

We weren’t to be disappointed: Freo is the more characterful sibling, a little rougher round the edges, but all the more likable for it. It has an extensive collection of Victorian/early Edwardian buildings which make wandering its streets a pleasure and a distinctly boho vibe. 

When the Swan River Settlement (modern day Perth) was founded in 1829, Fremantle, 20 km downstream at the mouth of the river, was developed as the colony’s port.

However there were severe labour shortages and, between 1850 and 1868, 9,721 convicts were transported to the penal colony on 43 separate voyages. Ironically, in between building the town, the convicts had to build their own accommodation too and today the Fremantle Prison   is not only Western Australia’s sole UNESCO World Heritage site, but a fascinating place to visit.

Built in the 1850’s, it was only decommissioned as a maximum security gaol in 1991, so a tour can cover everything from the condemned cells and gallows to the prison exercise yards, down to the underground tunnels used to store water. We did the Convict Prison tour which cost $22 and gave a good overall picture of the history of the place. There are other options but the price will ratchet up rapidly. The women’s wing has been turned into a youth hostel with basic bunk rooms for two if you fancy trying some unique accommodation. 

There is also a gallery within the gatehouse complex which is worth checking out. When we were there it had some interesting art by prisoners that was as good as, and a lot more affordable, than some of the stuff you find in the downtown galleries.

Luckily after a serious morning of sightseeing in the jail, we were rewarded by the Fremantle Markets which date back to 1897 and are just around the corner. Not only are there some quite quirky art and craft stalls in a fine Victorian building, but it is a foodie’s heaven, a smorgasbord of world cuisine. Fill up on crispy pork from North Korea or giant arancini balls and grab a spot at the informal bar. The place has a great atmosphere and so much choice that we simply had to go back another day.

Suitably fortified, we headed on to the Shipwreck Museum which covers the gruesome story of the Batavia, wrecked near Geraldton in 1629. While the captain went for help, there was a mutiny and many people were murdered. A large part of the stern of the ship was recovered and is now displayed alongside a large stone portico which was destined for a fort in Batavia (now Jakarta). There is also an array of artefacts from other Dutch shipwrecks, many suitably coral encrusted.

Nearby, the Fishing Boat Harbour  is a good place to wander. Many of the descendants of the original Italian immigrant families still fish out of the port and their contribution is honoured in a statue on the pier as well as a memorial wall to those lost at sea.

There is also a statue of Fremantle born Bon Scott, who might be more recognizable if I said he was the lead singer with ACDC. He stands very near some excellent fish and chip shops, including the iconic Cicerellos though Kailis Fish Market Cafe gives it a good run for its money. Sitting on the wooden pier scoffing crispy battered fish is a very Fremantle experience.

Just around the corner, buzzy Bather’s Beach is a popular downtown beach; there are great views from the terraces at the Bathers Beach House – so close it bills itself as Australia’s only licensed beach. This even extends to their beach loungers if you like your sun with alcohol!

The Roundhouse overlooks its northern end; it is the oldest public building in WA, built in 1831 as a mini jail – this one only had 8 cells lining an interior exercise yard. It is a 12 sided building so at the entire prison could easily be kept under watch There are good views over the coast and the town. Running underneath is an old tunnel which was built to give access to an old whaling station. When we were there they had a very clever art installation on the High Street: seemingly random splodges of yellow paint on the buildings materialized into a suspended circle between the houses when viewed from the stairs to the Roundhouse.

Time for coffee: check out the Cappuccino Strip on South Terrace : Gino’s is another Fremantle institution, serving well priced coffee at its jolly pavement tables. There is a good bookshop across the street. Duck Duck Bruce is another safe bet for breakfast or try Bread in Common with wood fired bread and sharing plates. For the home brew experience, seek out Little Creatures, housed in an old crocodile farm for great beer and pizzas.

The free CAT buses, which do two circuits at 10 minute intervals, make it very easy to get around, though the town is pretty compact and it is possible to walk everywhere. If you are planning a visit to Rottnest – highly recommended – the boats leave from C Shed on Victoria Quay, handily sited opposite the E Shed Markets. The crossing only takes about 25 minutes.

We stayed at the Fremantle Village Caravan Park as we were able to store our car there while we visited Rottnest Island. Just south of town, sites start at $36 and there is a pleasant 20 minute walk to South Beach and the free CAT bus service. 

Otherwise there are some good central hostels downtown: the Sundancer Backpacker Resort is one of the better ones or try the newly refurbished National Hotel on High Street for good value accommodation in the thick of things. In an old warehouse in the West End, the Quest apartments have smart studios from $233 a night.