The Valdes Peninsula lies on the Atlantic coast of Argentina and is home to large breeding numbers of Southern Right whales and Magellanic penguins, as well as more permanent resident wildlife. A UNESCO site with easy access, it offers the best marine wildlife viewing in the country.
We left the Welsh valleys of the Chubut behind and drove south another couple of hours to Camarones, which was once a port for the local wool industry. It has a beautiful location on the Atlantic coast but the town itself is ramshackle and scruffy.
However, it is the stepping off point for Cabo Dos Bahias, some 30 km south on a gravel road. This windswept cape is home to some 25,000 penguin pairs and is much less touristy than the Punta Tombo colony further north.
The road led us past some low colourful hills which made a pleasant change in this rather monotonous arid landscape. The ocean however was a beautiful deep azure shade and little bays sparkled in the sun. When we arrived we had a further pleasant surprise on discovering that entry was free. As the much more popular Punta Tombo is charging foreigners AR$250, it is a good demonstration of how Argentina is only too happy to milk its foreign tourists when it comes to entry charges.
Soon we were literally walking over penguins, albeit on a walkway, as many had chosen to nest underneath. The Magellan penguin was discovered in 1520 by Ferdinand Magellan hence the name. They pair for life and each parent takes turns in hunting for food and protecting the nest.
The path led gently downhill from the car park through undulating hills which had hundreds of penguins guarding their nests in shallow burrows. A strange donkey like braying could be heard as males defended their territory. At the end there was a lookout spot which gave good views over a sea lion colony on a nearby island.
Sadly we were just too early for chicks but the penguins entertained with their antics in and out of the water. Inland there were numerous guanacos and a rough road to a lookout showed us more of this wild undeveloped coastline. We rough camped that night just down the road from the colony, finding a gorgeous spot right above the ocean. The inland areas here may be a bit monotonous but the Atlantic shores are quite spectacular.
To Peninsula Valdes
From Camerones we headed north, choosing to follow the rougher coastal route, which initially hugged the coast then swung inland to emerge again on the coast at the one horse settlement, part derelict sheep farm, of Cabo Raso. There is basic accommodation here plus camping and you would certainly be getting away from it all.
It is easy to find good wild camping as you head further north along the coast towards the other penguin colony of Punta Tombo but we felt we had seen enough penguins and got back onto the main road to Puerto Madryn and the Valdes peninsula . Again skirting the coast, a succession of beautiful bays are revealed, with lots of potential whale sighting areas.
From Puerto Madryn it is better to take the smaller coast road which hugs the shoreline of the bay and leads to El Doradillo beach. There are lots of places to stop and it is quite possible to see whales from these cliff tops. Further along you can get on to the beaches and find your own perfectly tranquil picnic spot.
The entrance gates to the Peninsula are open 24 hours and will relieve you of AR$420. The visitors centre is well worth a look with a whale skeleton and you can get the fun Valdes whale tail visitor’s stamp in your passport. They can give you weather information and info on whether the whale watching trips are likely to be running or not.
Outside there is a little garden which has a very informative and interesting trail amongst the flora of the region, highlighting their medicinal properties and their native usage.
Puerto Piramides
This was one of our favourite little towns in Argentina: a scattering of low key, low level, colourful buildings nestling round a lovely bay with some cool eating and sleeping options.
The choice accommodation is Las Restingas Hotel de Mar right on the bay next to the whale statue and roundabout. Killing time doesn’t get any better than this, with fabulous views over the ocean and the chance to spot a whale from your bed.
It is a fabulous sunset spot and there is pleasant ambling on the surrounding rocks and beach. The La Corvacha Bar has a great terrace in a relaxed atmosphere.
Just round the headland or a small drive by road we found one of our favorite wild campsites in Argentina at Punta Pardelas. Great rock platforms reflect the superb sunsets in their pools and on a quiet still evening there is nowhere nicer.
However, being South America, the wind is never far away and tranquil flats can suddenly be inundated by crashing waves and water, so it is essential to park well above the ocean. Even so, one night the winds became so violent that we bundled our tent into the car before it could be shredded and piled in after it!
Exploring to the North
Punta Norte has much to recommend it despite the 93 km drive to get there: it is too far for the tour buses so is beautifully quiet. It also seems more sheltered from the wind and there are seats where you you can sit and enjoy the sea lion colony below. The coastline is quite pretty with chocolate gravel beaches.
Most visitors come hoping for death: this is one of the areas, along with Caleta Valdes further south, where the local orcas have discovered the art of ‘intentional stranding’. These killer whales are actually a toothed member of the dolphin family and the males can weigh up to 10 tonnes. Using the cover of the waves, they land on the beach, hopefully catching a seal en route.
Of course, there is very little chance of the average tourist being lucky enough to see this yet we all live in hope and trek out there – we didn’t see orcas at all, let alone on the beach!
Caleta Valdes is where a 33 km long gravel spit which shadows the east coast opens to the sea; it is another popular sealion hangout. Nearby there is a great small penguin colony and on a small headland above, more viewing spots with a little cafe.
Afțer that,there is little to see until Punta Delgado where you have to pay AR$180 to see more seals on the beach, although the little lighthouse is free and worth a look. There is a hotel here where it is possible to get lunch, in which case the seals are free.
As you head back towards Puerto Piramides, the Salina Chica salt flat is a short detour and worth a look, especially if you are not visiting the Bolivian salt flats. If you are keen, there is a 10 km circuit. The salt has a delicate rosy hue from resident crustaceans – think flamingo coloring.
Whale Watching
And so to the grand finale, the reason most people come to Valdes: a whale watching trip. There is a set price of AR$1,400 whichever operator you choose and we found it easy enough to just book on the day. We went with Botazzi who duly kitted us out in life jackets and led us down to the beach. Due to the shallowness of the bay, the boats are tractored in on huge trailers so you have to ascend a tall ladder to get into your boat.
It was late in the season and the whales were starting to drift away from the land but nevertheless within about twenty minutes the tell tale spume of water was spotted and suddenly we were in the midst of a large pod of whales.
These are Southern Right whales, so called by the whalers as they were often found close to shore and near the surface. Each year between July and November they visit the quiet sheltered bays of the Peninsula to produce their young. Now they cruised around our boat in perfect safety, smooth dark shadows moving leisurely through the water. 90% of whale watching seems to involve languid tail waves as the animal dives but occasionally we were lucky enough to see one breach out of the water, the huge body slapping down with a mighty splash.
Our hour passed quickly and soon we were back on shore and reviving ourselves with creamy hot chocolates at the cosy El Viento Viene cafe (literally and appropriately in English ‘When the Wind Comes’) – check out their handmade soft toy whales, a fun souvenir of the day.
My memories of Valdes: the landscape is desolate, dry and largely flat – and often whipped by a sand blasting wind. Distances are long if you want to cover the entire peninsula. However look seawards for the full bounty of coastal and sea birds and the great marine mammals which congregate here in such abundance and the unique attractions of the area become fully apparent. Add in great sunsets and the cool little town of Puerto Piramides and suddenly you have all the ingredients for a super holiday.
Exchange Rate: £1= AR$ 37 (July 2018)
