Jura lies in the Southern Hebrides of Scotland, just above Islay. A wild remote place with only 200 inhabitants, 6000 deer and one road, it has a captivating beauty.
From Islay to Jura. 5 minutes away by boat but an age away in time: we were transported to a rugged wilderness of jumbled peaks, steep scree slopes and utter tranquility. An island of 200 people and 6000 deer – the name jura is supposed to be derived from the Norse for deer island. There is only one road – the Long Road – running north along the east coast from the southern ferry terminal. The island is about 30 miles long and 9 across at its widest.
George Orwell on Jura
Strangely we were going back to the future too as George Orwell wrote 1984 while living here between 1946 and 1948. He described Jura as a most un-get-at-able place and the same holds true today.
We drove to the end of the public road then walked another 4 miles on a rough 4×4 track through lonely hills to see Barnhill, his house at the northern end of Jura. It nestles in a splendid location between rocky crags with a view out to sea and was empty when we visited. It can be rented though be warned: on looking through the windows, it didn’t appear as if anything had changed since Orwell’s time.
The road ended soon after at Kinuachdrachd, another house he rented before Barnhill. Five families once lived on this rocky little bay with its pretty remnants of ancient woodland. We picnicked on the remains of the old jetty, looking for the ever elusive otters.
Two miles further on, there is a look out over the Gulf of Corryvreckan with the world’s second largest whirlpool in the water below on the Scarba island side. It is caused by a combination of tides through the narrow passage, a large pinnacle and a deep hole; Orwell and his party lost their boat here but luckily managed to reach a small rock where they were found by lobster fishermen.
A lucky escape for Orwell and literature though he was to die in London only 2 years later far from Jura which has since basked in his reflected glory. Even David Cameron, ex-UK prime minister, mentioned Jura on Desert Island Discs on Radio 4 – his wife’s family owns one of the estates.
Wild Country
Heading back, we passed the lovely estate house of Ardlussa. The island is divided into 8 huge estates and deer hunting or stalking takes place from 15th August to 15th February. Despite this, it is easy to see deer close up beside the road, especially in the winter when they come down from the hills in search of better grazing.
Wildlife abounds and indeed most people these days visit Jura for its natural attractions. The west coast is completely inaccessible other than by foot or boat, a magnificent unspoilt landscape of raised beaches and rugged cliffs where a hiker could spend days on his own.
The most striking feature of the island is the Paps, three conical mountains whose steep scree covered slopes and rounded tops are left over from the ice age. Every May a fell race is held over these and it is considered one of the most difficult in Britain.
Other tracks are easier but no less dramatic: just before a turn off for Tarbet, it is possible to take an unmarked track on the left which leads across the island’s narrow waist to Loch Tarbet, an easy 20 minute walk. This stunning loch nearly cuts the island in two and it was used to avoid Corryvreckan. This walk is known as the ‘Coast to Coast’: take the Tarbet road and it will lead you down to the beach. There is also an old cemetery with an early example of recycling: a standing stone recarved with a Christian cross
Village Life
The coastal views from the road are stunning with sweeping views over the sea and little islands with the Mull of Kintyre in the far distance. Craighouse, the only village, has a community shop and the Jura Hotel which provides cosy, good value accommodation and meals – we had venison burgers for our lunch. Its characterful bar is a riot of murals, antlers and superb coastal views; it is popular with yachties from the mainland and Ireland in the summer.
The Jura whisky distillery is so close I am surprised they don’t have cask whisky on tap. Whilst not the most exciting distillery, being quite functional with modern equipment, it produces a good range of smooth unpeated and peated malts. The packaging on their bottles designed for World Export -or duty free – is especially striking with a lovely island photograph illustrating the whisky name. Of course, the Paps had to be the most expensive malt at £85!
Kilearnadil cemetery in the hills just outside Craig house is an interesting stop, the road passing through the old settlement of Keils where 102 people lived in 22 houses in 1841. The Campbell Mausoleum (1838) stands proud if decrepit, containing 11 Campbell lairds: they controlled the island from the 1600’s until finally selling up in 1938. Today, Jura House which they built in 1880 is owned by a rich Australian who has put in a golf course and is in the process of building a luxury hotel in the old stable block.
In a corner of the cemetery, a slab marks the grave of Gillouir MacCrain who died around 1645 having kept 180 Christmases in his own house – they were tough in those days!
Driving back to the ferry, we stop at a ruin above the beach, once lived in by a boat builder. We don’t have to wait long before the sinuous shape of an otter is seen on the nearby rocks. Near the ferry, deer are picking through the seaweed on the beach: it is surprisingly hard to leave this wild isle.
More information on Jura walks here.
More information on Islay ferries here