On a recent visit, Limoges proves a surprisingly interesting place to spend some time.
I like the Limousin; it is one of the prettiest, most rural and unspoilt departments in France. However, I had not intended spending a week there on this present trip, but then vacances obligatoires intervened due to a vehicle breakdown.
Having driven past Limoges many times, noting its distinctive cathedral silhouette and the jaunty railway station tower, a visit was probably long overdue.
Only 10 minutes off the motorway, and we were parking underneath the old Halles Centrales with their distinctive freize of porcelain panels. Unfortunately these appear to be closed for restoration at present and the occupiers decanted into a lesser shed next door. It is still worth a wander though and has all the usual tempting cheeses, meats and breads.
Look up in the Place de la Motte outside to see the giant mural painted on the side of a house with a very Renoir-esque girl at the window. The famous Impressionist artist was born in Limoges in 1841. The streets around here have some attractive browsing opportunities too with many quirky independent shops.
The nearby Quartier de la Boucherie was once the centre of the meat trade and has a wonderful array of densely packed half timbered buildings in narrow lanes. Wander through to the Place de la Barreyrrette where the animals were once penned before slaughter then pause in the little square by the tiny Chapelle Saint-Aurelien which was built by the butchers guild in 1475. Look out for the gilded statue of Virgin and Child, the latter nibbling on a piece of kidney!
There is a wide choice of restaurants here and in the rue Charles Michels below which seems to cater for every taste with Moroccan, African, Japanese and Italian options – I find the best solution is to follow the crowd.
A short walk will lead you to the Quartier de l’Eveche with the cathedral and the bishops gardens, overlooking the Vienne river. This Gothic homage to Saint Etienne was begun in 1273 and is surprisingly subdued with a strangely truncated tower to one end – its top was destroyed by lightning. The main Portail St-Jean dates back to the early 1500’s and has recently been cleaned.
Inside, the surviving half of the relocated 1535 rood screen displays six of the twelve labours of Hercules, somewhat unusually for a church.
The Jardins de l’Eveche provide a welcome respite from the sun with shady benches and views over the Vienne river. They are overlooked by the Musee des Beaux-Arts which is within the 18th century bishops palace. This has a surprisingly interesting selection from the bijoux Egyptian collection to the history of Limoges. Upstairs there is a small collection of Renoirs and some vivid enamels, most notably adorning an assortment of religious reliqueries.
On the Rue Haute Cite just back from the cathedral, there are more eating options. I know: it’s France, but the Irish Pub (l’irlandais) enjoys a great location and does a pretty mean beef burger – after all, those ubiquitous glossy chestnut cattle you see every where in the region are not just for decoration.
It is worth dropping down from the cathedral for a closer look at the river: don’t miss the pretty corner of half timbered houses on the Rue du Rajat with a tiny garden and bench to escape from it all. The 13th century St Etienne bridge was once the preserve of washer women; it now has some attractive cafes on the far side.
The river sides are well equipped with seating and it is a pleasant 1 km walk downstream to the other medieval bridge of St Martial, with its 13th century cross on the right bank. Come back on the other side for a loop walk.
We had exhausted ourselves with our day in Limoges and had not even touched on the porcelain side of things which took off here in 1768 when kaolin was discovered at Saint-Yrieux-la-Perche 40 km to the south and for which the town is now famous. If you are interested head to the Musee National Adrien Dubouche whose collection is supposed to be second only to Paris.
Exchange Rate: £1 – E1.12 (July 2018)
