Bruges, Belgium, is one of my favourite cities. Here are 10 ideas for experiencing some of its gastronomic delights.
Bruges – what springs to mind? Chocolate? Beer? Add a stunningly beautiful medieval city, old bridges over limpid canals, great independent shops, good restaurants and all within a small easily accessible area: what’s not to love?
Let’s start with the gastronomic side; here are 10 of our favourite spots, in no particular order.
This characterful place at 16 Cordoeaniersstraat was once a strip club and a little of the atmosphere remains. Deep red walls and a host of red roses hanging down from the ceiling now make it a popular proposal spot! It also has an vast array of beers, including the Trappist ones, and a nice choice of tasty and good value tapas. With all day opening, it is a good place to hang out at any time.
2. Lion Belge (Langestraat 123)
This friendly little restaurant describes itself as an ‘eet’ cafe on its sign and it does what it says on the tin. The limited menu is displayed on a blackboard on the wall and the hearty Belgian dishes come in huge portions and are very tasty. We waddled out happy after a very rich beef casserole and the Orlof, a layered ham in a cheesy sauce. It is worth booking in the evenings as they fill up quickly.
3. Royal Frituur (Langestraat 181)
Well, it is Belgium and you are going to have to try the frites somewhere. These have the added advantage of being vegetarian to boot – just don’t forget to add mayonnaise. There is also a variety of vegetarian burgers, as well as meaty options.
4. The Old Chocolate House (Mariastraat 1)
A whole rethink of the meaning of hot chocolate: choose top quality chocolate from different countries, or even different producers, then add the ’beans’ to steaming bowls of hot milk. The little chocolate cup they come in can then be eaten separately. Avoid marshmallows/oreos/M&Ms: overkill! Sweet little upstairs cafe too: grab a seat by the stained glass windows.
5. T’Poatersgat (Vlamingstraat 82)
One of the wonderful cosy bars the Belgians do so well: this one is located in the vaulted cellars under an old church. Watch your head as you descend inside then select from a range of 120 beers. Joining the locals at table football is optional.
6. In t’ Nieuw Museum(Hooistraat 42)
This is one for serious meat lovers, where the only logical option is steak. Aberdeen Angus was a bit too home from home, so we had the local rare breed, the West Flanders Rood Ras, which grazes on the salt marshes. Melt in the mouth steaks, cooked on a huge open 17th century fire in the restaurant, and served on a wooden platter for 2 with sauces, fries and salad. Not cheap but the friendly owner certainly knows his stuff: just don’t ask for anything other than rare!
7. Enjoy a Picnic
There is a Wednesday morning market in the huge central Markt. It is even bigger on Saturdays when it moves to ‘T Zand and it is a great place to pick up picnic supplies: cheese, salamis, fresh crusty breads and fruit and vegetable stalls. There is also BBQ chicken on an industrial scale and an interesting selection of long sausages if you are feeling adventurous.
The best picnic spot: under a shady tree by the outer canal ring or the stunningly beautiful Minnewater and the Lake of Love. It’s OK to drink in public spaces too.
8. Oyya (Woordzandstraat 1)
Don’t forget the waffles: this corner stall the near the Markt is the place to go. The locals eat them plain with just a dusting of sugar; we visitors are quite happy to add Nutella and cream. There’s a good ice cream place opposite too.
9 Vero Caffe (Sint-Jansplein 9)
Nice little cafe off the tourist drag: go for the squishy sofas by the windows, admire the plant life and enjoy excellent good value coffee and cakes. Catch the sun outside if you hit it at the right time of day: I am convinced that those who live in Bruges know exactly which cafe to visit at any time of day for the maximum sun exposure!
10 De Republiek (Sint Jakobsstraat 36)
Nice open plan cafe-restaurant, recently done up ( plywood is ‘in’!), good at any time of day for coffee, beer or good value food. There is quite a dramatic approach to the loo! It gets quite buzzy in the evenings: there is an excellent arthouse cinema attached which shows some good films, often with english subtitles so worth checking out (www.lumierecinema.be)
