It is easy to combine a stay at a classic Argentinian estancia with a visit to the spectacular Perito Moreno glacier, found within the UNESCO listed Los Glaciares National Park

 

In Patagonia it is easy to become a bit blase about glaciers as they are so common: when you look up they will be precariously balanced on the mountain heights above you, or in front, flowing down a valley, as you drive round a bend in the road. Some end in exquisite turquoise mountain lakes.

Los Glaciares National Park in the Santa Cruz province of Argentina has 48 glaciers flowing off the southern Patagonian Ice Field. This field covers 13,000 square km and is the largest outside Antarctica. At a lower level than many, these glaciers offer unprecedented access. Three of the biggest flow into the 160 km long Lago Argentino so can easily be approached by boat, giving a unique opportunity to see the glaciers calving and icebergs close up.

The Perito Moreno glacier is the most accessible of all and has been developed accordingly.  Only 80km from the town of El Calafate, the park can easily be done as a day trip; there is no accomodation within the park. Entry is a rather steep AR$500 each and payment is in local currency only. There is a shuttle bus from the parking lot to the glacier and a huge network of walkways leading to a variety of viewpoints.  We explored all of them and ended up in a forest at one point: you are really here just to see the glacier and the central viewing platforms give you as good a view as any if you are short of time.

There is a large number of visitors but nevertheless, this glacier exceeds expectations and is quite breathtaking in its immensity and beauty. At 5 km wide and up to about 60 m high, it really is an impressive field of ice and the walkways bring you face to face with its sheer heights.

Glaciers have a life of their own. It is difficult to believe that such an expanse of ice can move, but move they do, which is largely the definition of a glacier. They are formed when sufficient amounts of snow accumulate to pack into ice: the denser the ice, the bluer the colour as all light is absorbed bar blue. White ice has many air pockets.

Perito Moreno moves forward at a staggering 2 m per day, or around 700 m per year, and as you gaze at the jagged serried ranks of ice above you, it is easy to imagine them as some sort of inexorable army bearing down the valley.  This 30 km long glacier is advancing too, the vast snowfield above it collecting sufficient snow to feed it, it being only one of two in the region that are not in retreat.

An interesting phenomenon known as a rupture occurs when the glacier hits the headland of Lago Argentino, thus cutting the lake in two. This causes a huge increase in the water level, up to 30m on occasion, on the southern Brazo Rico side until finally it starts tunnelling under the glacier. An ice bridge is thus created which eventually collapses spectacularly, so restoring the equilibrium.

This process was underway when we visited. You would have to be pretty lucky to experience the ice bridge collapse but in the meantime the advancing ice is in a constant state of flux, great slabs breaking off the face at fairly regular intervals creating a wall of your sound like artillery fire.  It is probably your best bet in Patagonia of seeing this with any degree of certainty in a close up situation.

The water boils below the face as the falling ice submerges, only to surface again in a myriad of snowy flotsam. The boat trips offer a wide angle view where the walkways only offer a small area so both perspectives are different and equally entertaining. They can be booked in the car park and last about an hour.

Nibepo Aike Estancia

No visit to Argentina is complete without seeing Perito Moreno, but the other experience that should not be missed is a visit to an estancia, the Argentine equivalent of a ranch. These have a  venerable history, stretching back to the 18th century when these vast lands were appropriated at the expense of the native people.

Today they largely offer upmarket – some very upmarket – accommodation with an opportunity to explore on horseback. Thinking that having spent nearly three months in Patagonia without getting on a horse that maybe we should, we signed up for the mid market option at Nibepo Aike, originally settled at the beginning of the 20th century by a Croatian immigrant

This estancia is handily placed for Perito Moreno, sitting on a southern arm of Lago Argentino which is roughly the next valley over. It has a beautiful mountain backdrop and pleasantly low key traditional buildings. We were met by a lovely smell of beeswax on entry and were shown to a large double room at the corner end of the house so we enjoyed views in two different directions.

We had signed up for a six hour ride on our day of arrival but rain bucketed down. The guide gave us the option of canceling and looked rather disappointed when we said we were happy to go anyway.  She actually had nothing to worry about as she emerged covered from head to toe in a huge waterproof cape, whilst we were more vulnerable in our hiking gear. At least she answered a question I had been pondering: how do these gauchos keep their thick sheepskin saddles dry – though she said that they actually prefer not to go out if it’s raining!

We were presented with a couple of stocky horses. Simon’s had an unusual shredded ear which apparently had been caused by a puma attack in his youth.  Following Lago Argentino westwards we wound through undulating foothills, the mountains ahead lost in a veil of rain and cloud.

Our lunch stop was at a tin hut outpost but thankfully the gauchos had been ahead and there was a blazing fire. As our soggy gloves dried, we dined on milanese sandwiches and gradually warmed up.

Our persistence was rewarded though as after lunch it did actually brighten up and we had a lovely return ride, with sweeping views over the lake and surrounding mountains, at one stage enjoying a lovely gallop through the wild flowers.

Later that day there was a shearing demonstration and day visitors had the opportunity to go for a ride and bring the sheep in, although I think the sheep knew exactly where they were going. Gauchos demonstrated the art of barrel racing which was a little surprising as this is usually considered a woman’s sport and there is such a macho culture here.

Being Argentina, the day ended badly for the sheep, with another delicious asado lamb BBQ in a special restaurant building. In the house, American vegetarians complained of gnocchi and cheese sauce – this isn’t the best country for non-meat eaters.

The next day after a leisurely breakfast we headed off. Funnily enough, a few kilometers back down the road is one of the most stunning wild campsites in Patagonia at El Huala on Lago Roca. There are loos and fireplaces only but it offers the most wonderful views over the lake and mountains. We actually stopped there the night before our estancia visit: free versus about £300 – the choice is yours.

Where to Stay

Estancia Nebepo Aike can be booked through various web sites and they also have an office on the main street in El Calafate. Average cost £300 including all meals, sheep demonstrations and riding.

A more exclusive option in the region is Estancia Cristina which can only be reached by boat. This offers the only access option to the Upsala Glacier, the largest in the region at 60 km long. It can be visited as part of a long day tour to the estancia or you can stay overnight at about twice the cost of Nebepo Aike.

Exchange Rate: £1 = AR$ 29.5