Britain’s original long distance trail for horse riders, the Pennine Bridleway stretches from Middleton Top in the White Peak of Derbyshire through the industrial heartland of northern England to finish in the Lake District. We ride the first 100 miles..

DAY ONE

“But is it safe?” Anne asked. In the background, I could hear her husband wondering if he should take out life insurance.

“It’s an English bridleway, of course it’s safe! It will be a walk in the park.” I assured her.

Indeed, it was a walk in the park – for the first day at least. The Pennine Bridleway starts amidst the beautifully manicured limestone pastures of the Derbyshire White Peak area, a world of rich green fields, closely cropped by sheep and cattle and hemmed in by a delicate tracery of white stone walls.

Our biggest challenge on Day 1 was negotiating Middleton with a 26 tonne truck during the school run en route to the drop off point at Middleton Top. This area is found on the High Peak Trail, which now follows the line of the old Cromford & High Peak Railway from near Cromford through to Dow Low, 6 miles south of Buxton.

It was an interesting start to the ride, and we enjoyed looking at the relics of the railway which opened in 1830 and finally closed in 1967. Designed to link two canals, it climbed steeply to Middleton Top where the rotating beam engine raised and lowered the wagons – it is still in situ and still working. We could just glimpse the shiny engine through the windows before we turned our horses heads to the west and headed off.

With only the gentlest of inclines , this was easy riding and we were accompanied by swathes of cyclists and dog walkers. The sun shone and the easy contours of the trail revealed a pleasant plethora of views with the distinctive Neolithic tomb on Minninglow Hill under its distinctive beech trees rising ahead. 

On a sweeping curve we found the Minninglow Embankment which dates back to 1825 and has a 40 foot drop. This was not obvious to our horses who plodded on happily to a thoughtfully situated hitching post at the simple wayside stop of Parsley Hay. Here we had a welcome pause, snacking on hot cheese and onion toasties and cups of rich hot soup.

Suitably refreshed, it was now only a couple of hours more to our overnight stop at Beechcroft Farm. When the rail trail ended, we swung north for the first time, crossing the main Buxton to Ashbourne road and following narrow roads to the top of an escarpment at Pillwell Gate. Now we could see the great Derbyshire edges on the horizon ahead and the challenging heights of their moors.

First however, we made ourselves comfortable in our horsebox at Beechcroft Farm, a very smart caravan park indeed. With the horses catching up on grazing time, we headed off to the cosy Red Lion at Litton. With sunshine all day, we had a very pleasant start to our trail ride.

DAY TWO

The remnants of Hurricane Humburto had moved in overnight and we awoke the next morning to the sound of heavy rain. But the trail waits for no one and we saddled up in the barn and rode out. Instantly the terrain was different: we dropped steeply down to the deep cleft of Chee Dale and crossed the Monsal Trail, another popular rail trail with lots of exciting tunnels.  The Wye River was already swollen and the clouds were grey and heavy as we climbed out of the valley. This section winds between walled fields and farms until hitting the road just before Peak Forest.

 We had hoped to find the No Car café at Rushop Hall open but were disappointed and instead snacked on a meagre packed lunch on the hills above. The rain came in swathes and already the White Peak was far behind: soon after we crossed the main Sheffield road and suddenly we were on the moor amidst wild Dark Peak gritstone scenery.

Here the water in the cloughs, or valleys, ran a frothy brown from the heather covered peat bogs of the moor. A scenic ruin above Roych Clough had a beautiful rowan tree, heavy with water drops and red berries.  As we approached South Head, we met a ranger who had been out digging drains and later a troupe of hardy horse riders; it was nice to know we were not all alone out there.

The little town of Heyfield was once the centre of a weaving and calico printing industry and also the 1915 birthplace of Arthur Lowe who played Captain Mainwaring in Dad’s Army. Our destination lay a little to the north via an elusive bridleway: the Lantern Pike Inn at Little Heyfield. We arrived in the gathering dusk at 6.30 pm and received a warm welcome from Christi and Debbie who had given us the use of a lush field next to the pub.

My husband joined us for supper and we had a chatty time with the locals before dinner arrived. It had been a long day in the saddle and largely a rather wet one: that night we slept well in our comfy beds.

DAY THREE

After a hearty English breakfast with a view of the horses through the windows, we saddled up and continued our northwards trajectory. We skirted Lantern Pike, the huge cirque like landscape of the Kinder massif illuminated under a breaking sun to our east, the famous Kinder Downfall waterfall just visible as a silver streak.

A national trail advisor had suggested we miss out Glossop, but when one is in for the long haul, I think one should commit to doing all of it. As it was, Glossop was not a problem at all and following the suggested route for the Kinder Loop which is promoted by Peak Horsepower, we avoided most of the busy traffic areas. After completing a loop of a council housing estate, we crossed the railway line and followed a heavily overgrown, narrow bridleway to near the railway station. The dangers of riding a tall horse became apparent when Ann emerged with a giant spider.

The Longdendale Trail led us to Bottoms Reservoir where we had a scenic packed lunch stop before crossing  to the other side on a wide embankment. At Tinwistle (pronounced ‘tinsel’), we left the road and encountered our first cobbles – I hadn’t even realized that England still had cobbled roads – and headed back out onto the moors.

It was turning into a long day: Glossop had taken a good couple of hours to traverse and now as we dropped back down to the valleys and followed a trail through a succession of villages, it was getting late. We finally straggled into Diglea at 7.30, the bright lights of the Diggle Hotel showing the way.

Our B&B lay up a narrow street lined with scenic three story weavers dwellings with their multiple windows. Our hosts were alarmed to see us at such an hour: apparently we had interrupted their dinner and it was with some reluctance that they showed the way to the field and opened a shed for our saddlery. Ann asking for a teapot and fresh milk was nearly the final straw – we beat a hasty retreat to the Diggle Hotel, another cheerful Northern pub just 5 minutes walk away.

DAY FOUR

Ann further  tested the northern hospitality when she asked for fruit at breakfast. Our man in the kitchen looked rather blank: “Well, we have a plastic pineapple..” Another full English was duly produced before we headed out on a thankfully dry morning. Climbing up above the Diggle Hotel, there were superb views behind us. After crossing a main road we briefly intersected the Pennine Way: I think the walkers probably have the wilder, more scenic version of the Pennine routes but we certainly had the easier option on horseback.

However, our ways were scenic, threading between ancient stone walls on routes which were the motorways of their day, supplying the northern powerhouses. The industrial heritage of Britain has many faces and today they were largely watery ones. Many reservoirs were built in the late 1800’s to power the mills and wherever you go in this area, the distinctive weavers houses with their large windows are visible.

After Castleshaw, we came to Dowry Reservoir which is rumoured to have been partially built with the help of circus elephants drafted in from Manchester. On the hills above lie the jumbled remains of Dowry Castle which was started in 1867 by John Garside who made his fortune from brewing. It took 3 years to complete at a cost of 17,000 pounds, though Garside did not live to see it finished. Unfortunately within 10 years the reservoirs arrived and though the family clung on, on a reduced scale, until 1894, they finally sold out to Oldham Corporation and the house was demolished 3 years later.

We followed its magnificent high walls with huge gate posts along the moor. Although hemmed in by busy roads, it was a wild area. Crossing Readycon Dean reservoir, we stopped to admire the beautifully carved stones on the spillway, then climbed to another road where we were delighted to find the Ram’s Head Inn. Tying the horses up in a secure field we collapsed on comfy sofas and had a healthy feta and beetroot panini for lunch – though it did come with chips! Ann awarded them minus points for refusing to supply Ginger with a carrot.

A passing squall threatened to drench us when we reemerged to follow more scenic tracks to the Piethorne Reservoir and the tumbling overflow of the Norman Hill Reservoir. Soon after the modern world intruded violently as we saw the Rakehead Viaduct carrying the M62 motorway high above the valley. We passed soundlessly underneath and continued to Hollingworth Reservoir.

The nearby Syke Farm was a beautifully preserved homestead but we were on our own homeward stretch: a final climb and we emerged near the Moorcock Inn. A pseudo Tudor building on a busy road, it made a welcoming overnight stop. Dave showed us to their spacious beer garden and the horses were soon cropping the grass happily. Ann worried about them falling off a small terrrace and I was most miffed when our nice room was quickly downgraded so that we could have one overlooking them! When I came down after a shower, I was surprised to find her discussing the merits of turmeric with some Yorkshire men!

That night we had our first and only rag pudding – who would have guessed that we would even encounter an entirely new cuisine on our ride? So called as it was once steamed in rags, this suet wrapped rectangular meat dumpling, mushy peas and chips came close to defeating us – one could easily see it as the working man’s mainstay.

DAY FIVE

Dave and Vikki’s breakfast turned into a packed lunch, both of us still feeling the effects of the rag pudding. Dave has owned the pub for 3 years and told us about its days as a dodgy nightclub: when the pubs closed in the valley in the evenings, everyone headed up there – I couldn’t help wondering if its present moniker dates from that era!

We were sorry to leave their comfy confines and head out into the rain again. After negotiating an animal charity farm – our horses meeting their first ostriches – we followed a short stretch of moorland before dropping down to Summit where we crossed a bridge over the pretty Rochdale Canal. Soon after we were on the Mary Townley loop, named after the lady who instigated the bridleway. The loop is a more manageable 47 miles and we took the western arm.

Mary Townley is credited with being the instigator of the Pennine Bridleway and the present 47 mile loop, which intersects it, is considered to be one of the more scenic areas. Unfortunately this was also the day when the northern climate chose to throw everything at us so we did not get the full benefit of this undoubtedly beautiful area. We were soon on lovely moorland tracks again, with only tumble down walls and ruins to speak of busier times. We reached the Watergrove Reservoir and turned north on the beautifully cobbled Ramsden Road, stopping at the Little Town ruins to give the horses a break and to scoff some morale boosting chocolate. 

The road led on to the Watergrove Valley which in the late 1800’s supported some 200 people, a fascinating jumble of ruins and walled tracks, a little stretch of delicious old woodland in a hidden valley before ascending to the moor again. It was a world of camouflage colours, russet tipped reeds tossing in the wind, low cloud on rounded hills and water washed tracks. I longed to linger and explore further but with miles to go we plodded on through the rain. 

We missed the Bridleway down to the little town of Whitworth though I think our route may have been a more direct one. We paused under a small road bridge to take stock; I ate my breakfast sausages but Ann had a dodgy tummy and abstained. I think this was one of her low points but things were about to get a whole lot worse.

Back on track, we were soon at a signpost saying ‘Top of Leach’: the trail book recommends good weather for this section and as we started our ride along Rooley Moor Road, we had anything but. Horizontal rain attacked us as we climbed for 2 ½ miles to reach the Top of Leach at 1,555 feet. Luckily the clouds were high enough for us to get an impression of the wide moors and enjoy the wonderful cobbled road that we followed. It was built by cotton workers during the ‘cotton famine’ of 1861-65 as a relief project – I only hope they had better weather than we had or famine might have been the easy option!

Somewhere along this road Ann claimed she began to feel fearful: soaked through and freezing, her i-phone down to 10 %, nightmare scenarios ran through her head. A horse might stumble, we would all die of exposure, no one would ever find us.. Oblivious to all this, I plodded on in front, luckily totally waterproof in a USA Marine Corps jacket and wellies and actually feeling rather cosy considering the conditions.

I gave up taking out the camera until we came to the more sheltered Cragg Quarry, an expanse of jumbled slag heaps. Waterfalls tumbled down edges which I am sure would normally have been dry. Now on stone flags, we followed their grooves as the carters who created them once did. Head down, I did not pay sufficient attention to a broken signpost and missed the turn down to Waterfoot. We realised when the horse gates ceased and Ann was able to use her Google Maps to take us back to the right track, which dropped down stonily back to civilisation – a world of bad and impatient drivers who swore if we did not move quickly enough – I think another low point for the drenched Ann who encountered one such outburst.

It was not long though before we reached our evening stop, the cheerful Peer’s Clough B&B which is an approved BHS trekking centre on the side. I dived for the hot shower while Ann revived herself with copious cups of tea whilst muttering about the distances being much longer than she had expected. As no map seems to exist of the route which actually mentions distances, I could hardly be to blame if our days had been somewhat guesstimated!

A friend joined us at the Hargreaves Arms for dinner; though our hostess had warned us that it was a rather dodgy pub, everyone seemed to be on their best behaviour and we escaped unscathed – we even managed to order a main meal that came without chips! A successful end to a long wet day. 

DAY SIX

The previous day’s violent rain remained when we got up at 7 am, with the addition of a howling gale. Ann took one look and dug her toes in like a stubborn horse, even considering renting a horsebox to the pick up point. Luckily our hostess did not own a horsebox and we shortened the day so that we only had a 3 hour ride to meet Simon and the horsebox to take us home.

After a farmhouse kitchen breakfast, we tacked up in a big barn and headed out. As luck would have it, it turned into a beautiful day and we enjoyed sunshine and wonderful views as we wound on north through a combination of moorland and fields. At the top of Heartbreak HIll, we found the stone memorial to Mary Townley which claimed ‘the air of heaven is that which blows between a horse’s ears:’ Innocent was happy to scratch his on the top of the stone after which we dropped down to the pretty hamlet of Holme Chapel which had its annual sheepdog tournament in progress.

Resisting the temptations of the W.I. cakes in the village hall we had a final climb up through undulating farmland, allowing Ginger some last minute practice at passing cows, or in this case a bull, which seemed to worry Ann more than Ginger.

Just as we neared Maiden Cross, Simon arrived in the horsebox – perfect timing. I was sad to finish as I was sure many more scenic miles lay ahead. We had covered 100 miles without any problems and other than the weather the route had been straightforward. 

Ann had been raising money for the BHS so could look back at a job well done – as I pointed out, at least her sponsors would feel they got value for money as a certain amount of discomfort had been involved! Apparently the woke term is ‘positive discomfort’ and it is supposed to be character building!

It seems a shame that the trail would appear to be more popular with cyclists than horse riders as there is some fabulous scenery out there and a warm welcome from so many people. It certainly gave me a new appreciation of an often overlooked part of northern England and its rich industrial history.  I can’t wait to do it again, and next time I hope to finish it!

Below: Video Snaps of the ride including Ann’s low point on a very wet day!

NOTES

The pennine bridleway website is useful in parts but horribly out of date. Some of the places I rang had not offered accommodation for 3 years.It would really benefit from updating in this respect which might encourage more people to follow it. More accommodation options, especially on the Hebden Bridge side, are needed. A lack of these is presently preventing people from completing the 3 day ride on the Mary Townley Loop which is a shame. That said, from past experience, I can usually find somewhere if I ring around enough, so if you want to do it, perservere!

Ann spoke to a trail advisor who advised her to avoid riding through Glossop which is ridiculous. We followed the route set out in the Kinder Loop leaflet produced by Peak Horsepower and only had a very short stretch on what was not even a bad road anyway. An alternative leaving from the council housing estate is to follow the Trans Pennine trail which brings one out at the lower dam on Bottoms Reservoir. Our route via the Longenden Trail, whereby we crossed the embankment between Valehouse and Bottoms reservoir might have been a touch longer, but I think more scenic, with lovely views and nicer off-road tracks.

One important point is that many of these tracks are extremely stoney so take a horse that can handle the stones or put pads on – mine found it quite hard going. There are few places to canter. I would also advise a horse that walks out, especially if you end up going in front,  as you rapidly get fed up of kicking a horse for 100 miles, as I had to do with my lazy Thoroughbred. Gate opening ability is an added bonus! Be prepared for atrocious weather. And finally there may be an unfortunate lack of fruit and Earl Grey tea – on the flip side, everything comes with chips!

Day 1.

Middleton Top to Beechcroft Farm: 29.5 km/5.5 hours. There is a simple cafe at Parsley Hay or the excellent Royal Oak Pub at Hurdlow, right beside the trail.

Accommodation at Beechcroft Caravan Park at Blackwell in the Peak, right on the trail.  Camping and caravans only – we stayed in our horsebox here.

Day 2.

Beechcroft  Farm to the Lantern Pike Inn at Little Heyfield: approximately 30 km / 8.5 hours. Refreshments at the No Car Cafe if open.

Accommodation at the Lantern Pike Inn at Little Heyfield. B&B from £30 and bar meals available.

Day 3.

The Lantern Pike Inn to Sunfield B&B,  Diglea: Approximately 21 km / 9.5 hours. Mini supermarket in the council housing estate and the Bulls Head at Tinwistle. The Rams Head is right on the trail where it crosses the main road north of Denshaw and has both a cafe and pub side with a handy field.

Accommodation at Sunfield B&B, Diglea. B&B from £40. Evening meal at the Diggle Hotel, 5 minutes walk away. B&B from £40.

Day 4.

Sunfield B&B, Diggle to the Moorcock Inn, Littleborough: Approximately 19 km /6.5 hours. 

Accommodation at the Moorcroft Inn, Littleborough. B&B from £40. Bar meals and restaurant on site.

Day 5.

The Moorcock Inn to Peer’s Clough Trekking Centre and B&B: Approximately 26 km / 8.5 hours. Summit has the Summit Pub or one could probably find something to eat in Whitworth, but it would mean a detour – we didn’t see anything obvious.

Accommodation at Peer’s Clough Farm B&B. Rooms from £40. Evening meal at the Hargreaves Arms in Lumb. We were picked up, otherwise it would be a 20 minute walk downhill.

Day 6.

Peer’s Clough B&B to parking area at Maiden Cross: Approximately 9.5 km / 3 hours.