A serendipitous glimpse in passing caused us to detour and led to a pleasant afternoon exploring the castle and village of Roquefixade.
Roquefixade is one of those places you drive past and think ‘hmm, looks interesting’. The village itself is a tight cluster on a high hillside but even more striking are the rocky limestone crags which tower above it, one of which is surmounted by a ruined castle.
We were hot footing it to Lavelanet for the Emmaus summer sale. Emmaus is the French equivalent of Oxfam but has much to delight an English visitor: a cornucopia of vintage tat, antique kitchenalia, linen and other jetsam just waiting to be discovered. Strangely enough all the shops are manned by black people and they are the friendliest French people you will ever speak to!
On the way home, we detoured to Roquefixade, picnicking on the grassy Belvédère de la Gardelle at the edge of the village and admiring the patchwork scenery below. Tall poplars were noticeable amidst scattered fields, hemmed in by the high sided valley. Away from our quiet Couserans area, the climate felt much drier and more Mediterranean.
We decided to visit the castle on a round about route, initially walking east of the village on the GR107 some 2 km towards Coulzonne on a gently undulating grassy track.
The GR107 is known as the Chemin des Bonshommes and runs for 235 km between Foix in the Ariège and Berguedà in Catalonia. It was used as an escape route in the Middle Ages by Cathars fleeing the Inquisition.
Roquefixade was a minor Cathar castle, compared to that of Montségur where over 200 Cathars were burnt and which can be seen within signaling distance on a distant hilltop.
En route, we passed the Monument de la Resistance/Bataille de Roquefixade where on 6th July 1944 the Maquis partisans (comprising 76 French, 3 German Jews and one Austrian jew) were attacked by the Milice and the German army.
The following day, the Germans surprised a Maquis patrol and although most of the partisans escaped the encirclement, 16 were killed – the rather Brutalist monument marks the spot and offers a shady seat for contemplation. Only a few weeks later on 22nd August 1944, the Ariège was liberated.
Just before Coulzonne, we veered off on a path which we followed gently uphill amongst oak and beech trees,passing the mossy Grotte de la Gleiso Catoulico.
Soon we emerged on the rocky heights of the Roc Marot at 1001 m, then shortly afterwards the Roc de la Lauzade at 994 m. Roquefixade lay below us, seemingly little changed over the centuries. The square had a solid fortified appearance and the stylised Occitan cross carved on its stone surface could be easily seen to one side. It is an emblem often seen in South Western France.
We meandered on enjoying the fine views with wooded mountains to each side. The distinctive silhouette of the castle appeared below us, and we actually dropped down to visit it, contorting ourselves around the tight rocks which guarded the approach.
Dating from the 11th century, it’s walls are actually the most impressive part today as it is largely an empty shell, clinging limpet like to a precarious outcrop. Louis XIII ordered its final demolition in 1633.
Friendly goats were quite at home amidst the higher ruins from where a flagpole tower offered a prime viewing point.
The arch spanning the fissured rock, which gave the place it’s name, was still visible.
Our direct route back to the village was surprisingly short and we were soon back in the square where it’s impressive, rather phallic like, fountain offered a cool respite.
Surprisingly the little village seemed to lack a cafe or restaurant of any sort, although a gîte d’etape was signposted.
As I watched the fountain gold fish swim languidly in the summer heat, I reflected that life could be a lot more interesting if we trusted more to serendipity!
NOTES: Roquefixade is roughly half way between Lavelanet and Foix. The castle is free to visit and is open 24 hours a day. There is free parking at the Belvédère de la Gardelle, where the various walk options start.