Many people, who wouldn’t normally do so, find themselves camping or renting a motorhome in Iceland merely because of the cost and lack of availability of hotel accommodation. The country is well equipped with camp sites and it gives you the flexibility to go where you want to when you like. Try it – you might even enjoy it! 

Camping is the affordable option in Iceland and luckily nearly every town will have a campsite. Annoyingly, in a huge landscape with virtually no people, wild camping with vehicles is effectively banned. 

This means you are channelled into crowded campsites in the popular areas when it can resemble an Asda carpark. The kitchen spaces may be crowded and there may be queueing for showers and toilets. 

However, the camping system is delightfully informal with no designated spaces or time of arrival, so there is always space with no advance booking required. Either pay morning or evening at a check in area, or quite often someone will find you in either the morning or the evening. Credit cards are accepted everywhere.

There is a camping card available for 179 euros which allows free camping in designated sites for a maximum of 28 nights. After 9 weeks, we found we had 2 nights left, so if you are only coming for a short time, it may not be cost effective depending on where you visit as not all sites are members of the scheme. It ends in mid September after which many, but not all, of the campsites close for the year. 

It covers a lot of the West Fjords, Grundarfjörður in the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and Grindavik near the Blue Lagoon which was useful, as well as other sites scattered around Iceland. 

The following are some of our favourites. 

CAMPING 66.12° NORTH 

North of Húsavik 

66°12′00.11″N 17°06′10.85″W

This place has a superb seafront location roughly half way between the cute little whale watching town of Húsavik and the northern end of the Vatnajökull National Park at Ásbyrgi, with its fabulous horseshoe canyon. 

There is spacious camping in grassy fields with scattered picnic tables and serene sea views towards a pair of small volcanic islands and encompassing headlands.

The superb facilities include a fully equipped kitchen and piping hot showers – and a hair dryer which was a nice touch.

The hosts are friendly and you can check out the Back To The Past Mánárbakki Museum whilst there, with its lovely old time turf houses.

1,800 kr per person, 1000 kr for subsequent nights (showers included) – you might never want to leave.

ÁSBYRGI 

Vatnajökull National Park 

65°56′00.21″N 16°33′26.23″W

This campsite is only about 50 km on from the above at the northern end of the Vatnajökull National Park.

Although popular there is lots of space to to spread out (go for the bottom end if you want quiet) in nice grassy sections overlooked by the impressive rock wall of Eyjan, the rocky outcrop which sits in the middle of this amazing horseshoe shaped canyon.

The facilities are excellent with good hot showers included, a washing machine and very useful drying cupboards for laundry. There is free wifi near the main block. 

Whilst there, don’t miss the gorgeous Botnstjörn, an emerald pool at the bottom of the cliffs, do the easy 4.5 km return walk up Eyjan, and if you have the energy to climb a rope to the escarpment, there is a fabulous walk to the head of the canyon for breathtaking views.

1,500 kr per person (showers included). 

MOÐRUDALUR 

Central North

65°22′23.05″N 15°52′58.63″W

Come for the love balls and the squishy sofas with coffee table books and WiFi in a log cabin setting. 

Fjalladyrd reminds me of an Aussie roadhouse where disparate travellers cling together with an ‘we’re all in this together’ mien.

Camping is spacious and grassy with nice views over river and moorland in a fairly desolate spot. Temperatures dropped below freezing the night we were there in July. There is a stone kitchen hut with hob and seating for when the inclement weather strikes.

Inside, a variety of coffee, cakes and meals are offered and they have a good value 2000 kr breakfast buffet.

Showers are unfortunately not included.

If you are a masochist, long and expensive (39,900 kr) 10 hour trips depart from the place going to Askja and Hvannalindar – the roads are terrible!

1.590 kr. (free with camping card/showers 200 kr.)

BJARG 

Mývatn 

65°38′24.74″N 16°54′53.55″W

Let’s face it, you’re going to end up in Mývatn at some stage and if location, location, location is important, then this is the best of three possibilities.

In the centre of what little there is of Reykjahlið (petrol, store, alcohol, jumpers), it has lovely smooth lawns running directly down to the lakeside.

If you are prepared to carry your stuff a short distance, you can pitch your tent in peace and quiet with wonderful views over the lake and it’s many ducks. Cars have to be left in the car park about 100 m behind.

The hill above can resemble, as Simon remarked, an Italian carpark, with all the no-option campervans piled in higgledy piggledy!

There is a shared combined loo and shower block – the showers are excellent with rainforest heads and a hairdryer is supplied. 

2,400 kr including showers

HÓLAR 

Hofsós 

65°44′13.77″N 19°07′04.21″W

Hólar is hidden away in a quiet valley about 22 km south east of Hofsós and is the much better camping option of the two. 

A bishopric for northern Iceland since 1106 until its sale in 1824, it is well worth the detour to see the lovely stone church dating back to 1759 with its ornate German altar from 1500. 

The campsite has secluded, individual sites nestled in a forest, a pleasant change in Iceland, and is well equipped with picnic tables. There are toilets and washing up facilities with hot water but no showers. 

Kick back and enjoy the sound of silence! 

Price 1,500 kr (1,300 kr subsequent days). 

KLEIFAR 

Kirkjubaejarklaustur

63°48′04.65″N 18°03′26.11″W

What camping in Iceland should be like if you have to pay for it!

Quiet grassy area with lots of space just 2 km west of Kirkjubaejarklaustur. Tents have their own walk in area with a lovely waterfall.

2 toilets, a washing up area and picnic tables and great views of surrounding cliffs – all for 750 kr if they bother to find you. Bonus: there are even a couple of tall trees at the facilities area!

MELANES

Rauðasandur, West Fjords. 

65°26′43.13″N 23°57′18.86″W

I have included this one because of its wonderful location by the golden beach of Rauðasandur. There is lovely walking in the area, kayaking trips or simply chilling on this 10 km wide beach whose colours change constantly in the light.

The campsite is in a huge hay field with lots of room to spread out. There is a reasonably well equipped kitchen, showers and toilets. 

1,500 kr when we were there, reduced as the hot water had broken down. Free with camping card. 

THE ONES THAT GOT AWAY

There were several campsites en route that I heard good things about but didn’t stay at due to logistics. They included:

Pakil, just east of Vik: a beautiful site in the mountains with great hiking. 

63°31′47.99″N 18°53′17.36″W

Heydalur, at the top of the west fjords: hotel and camping with good food and hot pots. Horse riding and kayaking available. 

65°50′32.73″N 22°40′30.35″W

Haukafell, which would usefully fill in the dead spot between Skaftafell National Park and Höfn. It is near a glacier tongue in a leafy setting. 

64°20′44.77″N 15°30′13.79″W

Gardskagi Peninsula, just 60 km from Reykjavik on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Sleep and awake with the sound of the sea on an open grassy space between two lighthouses on a beautiful headland.

Just a toilet and washing facilities but you cannot beat the location. Check out the adjacent museum (free) with its restored engine collection and fishing boats. The friendly local cat might even find you.