Coogee to Bondi is one of the iconic coastal walks of Sydney and one cannot argue with the variety of beaches and scenery en route. Waverley Graveyard adds a delicious frisson.

I have a friend for this one! Jane finds me outside the Coogee Bay hotel at 10 am and we set off northwards towards the distinctive gates of the Giles Baths which now house a Bali Bombing memorial with poignant photographs of the 88 Australians killed in October 2002. The baths are a remnant of their former glory, although still a pleasant sheltered swimming spot.

We skirt the cliff edges on rough sandstone and soon come to tiny Gordon’s Bay which is known for its underwater diving trail. Boats rest on wooden platforms and there are still plenty of rock shelves for the ardent sun worshiper.

Forsyth Park on the next tip has a huge parking area for busy Clovelly Beach which has a large expanse of cement rather than natural ledges. However, it is a safe, sheltered swimming bay so popular with families and there is the attractive Seasalt Café above the ocean pool.

Our first stop is just around the next rugged headland when we divert to explore Waverley Cemetery which was formally opened on 1 August 1877 with its first burial three days later. It now occupies 40 scenic acres above Bronte with the sea as a vivid backdrop.

The tombs stand in serried rows with the widespread use of white Carrara marble for the monuments producing Greek-like contrasts against the blue sky.

We wandered uphill towards the main gate, the names around us showing the history of immigration in Australia. There were many Irish ones and Italians, who seem to prefer large vaults with their photos on.

Henry Lawson (1867-1922) was an Australian writer and bush poet, although in his later years he descended into penury, alcoholism and depression. The simple grave has been embellished with shells.

At the bottom we find Dorothea McKeller (1885-1968). Coming from a wealthy background she was able to travel extensively – her most famous poem My Country (‘I love a sunburnt country’) was actually written when she was homesick in England.

The path carries on though a deep cutting to Bronte Beach where we decide a lunch stop is in order. A restaurant strip set back above the beach offers plenty of choice and we end up with tacos and smoothies at Salina.

Bronte Beach is pleasantly bijoux with an ocean pool – known as the Bogey Hole – to the southern end, followed in quick succession by Tamarama Beach. The path is busy now: these beaches are easily accessible on a pleasant day walk with lunch from Bondi.

We ascend to a final headland and the delights of Bondi are suddenly visible below us. It is bigger than I remember, a kilometre of sand sweeping around a large bay. The tram reached Bondi in 1894 and it has been growing ever since, with an average rental now in the area of $950 per week for an apartment – backpackers who arrive thinking Australia is cheap are sorely disappointed!

We stop at the iconic Icebergs for cold refreshment, sitting above the open pools where huge waves threaten the occupants at regular intervals. Nearby there is the ‘backpacker express‘ : a dangerous rip for swimmers.

I check into the Village Hostel where claustrophobics need not apply – the 2 bunk room is tiny.

Jane and I watch the beautiful people and the dog walkers for a while and then head to Bondi Hardware on Hall Street for their Happy Hour where the marguaritas are cold and delicious.

We linger on, snacking on crisp coated pumpkin arancini and sweet potato fries, until the DJ cranks up the music another notch and we decide to call it a night.

NOTES

An easy walk of approximately 6 km with lots of refreshment options en route and 5 beaches! There are good transport links at both ends.