This walks includes the fabulous Cremorne Point, a pool with a view and enchanting gardens as one wanders along the bays of the North Shore.
From the North Sydney wharf one walks through Sub Base Platypus which was once a submarine school and WW2 torpedo factory. It closed in 1999 and is now a community space. The Young Endeavour was tied up at the dock – the ship is used on youth training exercises.
Steep steps lead up to the road above from where one drops over to Anderson Park which is built on reclaimed mangrove swamps.
The trees are now quite big but in 1934 the famous aviator Kingsford-Smith unloaded his Lady Southern Cross monoplane in the reserve when it was shipped from the USA. There was then just enough room for him to take off and fly to Mascot Airport to the excitement of a crowd of onlookers.
A year later, both Kingsford-Smith and the plane disappeared without trace as he attempted to fly from London to Australia.
Back on the road, the path skips the next small dead-end peninsula and cuts over to the Cremorne Point Reserve, one of the more delightful walks in Sydney.
Once the site of pleasure gardens, it was in danger of being developed for housing but a government edict of 1891 preserved an area of 30 m in from the water, leaving us the enchanting little strip that we have today.
There is a pseudo Gothic entrance arch then a delightfully shady amble along the edge of Shell Cove, liberally sprinkled with yachts and waterfront houses.
Gradually the view opens up and Sydney Harbour is revealed in all its glory with the Opera House and Bridge. There are plenty of shady trees and benches and it is a great picnic and sunset spot.
A little way along is one of the hidden gems of Sydney: the 33 m MacCallum Pool, which started life as a rock pool created by Olympic swimmer Fred Lane.
It was then further developed in the 1920`’s by Hugh MacCallum and today the picket fence lined pool, with free entry and wonderful harbour views, is a justifiably popular place – just be warned there are no loos or changing rooms, but there are public facilities a little further on above the ferry wharf.
From there it is a short walk to the end of the reserve at Robertson’s Point, passing a bicentennial cairn erected by the Clan Donnachaidh in 1988. Bush turkeys wander around and the raucous sound of crickets fill the air.
At the very tip you will find the small 1910 navigational lighthouse. It is still operational and flashes green every three seconds.
There are nicely situated benches just above it, but for an up close experience it is necessary to climb down a ladder to the rocky ledge where it stands.
I started walking up the other side of the point and soon came to the little heritage-listed garden which was developed in the 1960`s by Lex and Ruby Graham. It all started when an elephant’s ear bulb washed up and surprisingly grew.
The Grahams tidied up rubbish in the area and created this delightful garden which rambles over the hillside on small, overgrown lush paths. Unexpected pockets reveal a small bird path or a secret pool – it is all quite enchanting!
Hidden stairs led down to an old bathing pool where I enjoyed a picnic lunch in glorious isolation.
Continuing on, I passed Old Cremorne Wharf. There were fine villas on my left as I came to another lush pocket in a gully where giant fig trees survived, their buttress roots climbing down the hillside.
A bridge crossed a stream trickling down between boulders in this forgotten corner of Sydney – and I think how much we have destroyed along the way.
The reserve continues round the top of Mosman Bay to emerge at the Scouts Hall. At the waters edge I watch a cormorant diving for fish. The bay was once called Great Sirius Cove and there is a monument to the ship just before the Mosman Bay Wharf.
HMS Sirius was the principal naval escort of the First Fleet which arrived in Sydney on 26th January, 1788 after a 184 day trip from England via Tenerife, Río and Cape Town.
In October 1788 she sailed back to Cape Town, via Cape Horn, to get provisions for the fledgling colony. 17,566 nautical miles and 219 days later she returned.
In need of repairs, she was taken to Great Sirius Cove, as it was to become known, as it was thought it was less likely the men would be distracted by bad company. She spent 6 months there being careened and refitted.
More steps and hills lead away from the wharf and take me to Curraghbeena Lookout, Taronga Zoo well hidden on the next headland.
I walk on, going up some stairs and passing Curraghbeena Park which was once one of 11 whaling blocks in the 1830’s and the only one to survive. It was made a National Park in 1887 and is named after a point in Co. Cork which was the last place seen in Ireland by Richard Hayes Harnett as he left for Australia in 1840. He is credited with the development of Mosman and his son became its first mayor.
Steep steps lead down this time to Little Sirius Bay, a pretty bay which seems to be the dog walkers favourite – I counted 13 mutts! At least in the Australian climate you can go swimming with your dog.
The path leads on around the bay to finish at Taronga Zoo Wharf. This 1.6 km section is known as the Curlew Camp Walk after the 19th century artists who created an artists camp nearby. They included Arthur Streeton and Tom Roberts and some of their most famous works were painted in the area.
There is the added bonus at the end of a beautiful ferry ride back to Circular Quay!
NOTES
An easy walk of about 5 kilometres although there is quite a lot of up and down hills between the bays. There are good transport options at both ends.
