One of my favourite harbour walks in Sydney, this section offers such delights as an early lighthouse, a nudist beach, great seafood and stunning beaches and views throughout.

Our walk starts on a rather grey morning at Watson’s Bay and The Gap looks high and forbiddding: it is a popular suicide spot which may help to explain the building site barricades around the cliff edges.

We climb steps to more sweeping views then follow overgrown tracks past old gun emplacements. South Head has long been occupied by defence forces and we have to detour back down the hill as some of it is still out of bounds.

A right turn leads us to Camp Cove, site of Captain Phillips’ first landing within Sydney Harbour on 21st January, 1788. It is a picture perfect little cove with golden sand and attractive houses – apparently when the plots first went on sale, sales were slow!

Stairs at the end of the cove lead up to the South Head Heritage Trail, where a 1870’s cobbled road ascends to the head. A discreet turn leads to Lady Bay, one of Sydney’s nudist beaches. It is a strangely popular detour on the harbour jetboat trips!

The snazzy red and white Hornby Lighthouse was built in 1858 following the wreck of the Dunbar at the foot of South Head on 20th August 1857. 121 people died; ironically the sole survivor was to become the first lighthouse keeper. Designed by colonial architect Alexander Dawson, it was the third lighthouse to be built in NSW.

There are stunning views out to North Head and over the ocean before the track loops past more gun emplacements and rejoins the original approach path. Dropping back onto the soft sand at Camp Cove, we traverse the beach to stairs at the other end where a memorial to Phillips’ landing sits on a small hill.

Proceeding on around the headland, we reach Green Point, where an anti submarine boom net was once stretched across the harbour. On the night of 31st May 1942, 3 Japanese midget subs tried to enter: one became entangled in the then unfinished net and being unable to free themselves, the crew blew it, and themselves, up. 

The stone obelisk was erected in the 1850’s as a navigational marker, the other being at Parsley Bay. The track now emerges onto a stretch of road before cutting down again to the calm waters of Watson’s Bay.

Here there is the popular Doyles restaurant, with lots of fishy options, or for takeaway fish and chips there is a kiosk a little further along on the wharf – just watch out for the roaming gulls and the odd pelican! 

From Watson’s Bay, the track curves past a defunct lifeboat house, the swimming enclosure,  and a small beach before climbing up to follow the road. This is prime Sydney real estate: huge houses with lush gardens, hidden glimpses of a better life through automatic gateways.

Cutting down from the road we find hidden steps leading to an enchanting walkway which hugs the cliff face just above the water and which leads to Parsley Bay Reserve: one of Sydney’s hidden gems. The lovely little beach offers safe swimming and there is a kiosk.

We bear left just before it and ascend the steps to cross the Parsley Bay Bridge. This scenic swing bridge was built in 1910 and returns us to tree lined roads. It is recycling day: sofas and other detritus are piled on the pavements.

We skirt Beach Paddock, once part of the Vaucluse Estate. The stately Vaucluse House, a 19th century estate which has survived largely intact, is nearby and the restaurant offers lunch as well as fine cream teas. Entry to the house is free and it is well worth a visit.

Another stretch of road and we come to Nielsen Park, where we skirt around Bottle and Glass Point for distant Sydney views. Shark Beach offers sheltered swimming and there is a popular cafe (presently both closed for seawall reconstruction!)

The next stretch offers some of the best bush walking in the harbour: the Hermitage Foreshore Walk leads all the way to Rose Bay, past a succession of perfect tiny beaches.

Tiny Milk Beach nestles under Strickland House, which was built in the 1850’s, descending from country estate to old folks home to emptiness today.

A huge flat rock just after it gives a wonderful vantage point of the Sydney skyline. There is the sound of soft ceaseless waves and the chinkle changle of the masts on the gently tethered yachts.

The water is clear and there is lots of Sunday activity in the harbour: a mini yacht race is in progress and we watch with some amusement as a competitor tries to right his overturned vessel. He succeeds and the wind immediately blows it over again.

Windsurfacers skim by, flying precariously on their rudders, whilst the busy ferries ply between the city and Manley.

This walking is idyllic, winding our way through lush native vegetation, each bend giving a different perspective on the harbour.  The little beaches are quiet, sometimes deserted, one could have a beach all of one’s own here.

After Hermit Beach and Hermit Point with its disused boat ramp, comes Queens Beach, where a yacht is  superbly posed against the Sydney skyline.  A steep climb from there takes us past a  hidden cemetery,  steel crosses marking the graves of long forgotten nuns.

The path eventually emerges back on the streets again and we follow fragrant honeysuckle clad walls up to the main road, where a right turn drops us down the hill into Rose Bay and the end of our walk.

 NOTES

Both Watson’s Bay and Rose Bay are easily accessible by bus and ferry.

The walk from Watson’s Bay to Rose Bay is approximately 6km. The Gap and South Head loop adds about 5.5km.