This section of the walk is quite different from the bushland around Watson’s Bay but still delightful, although the path does rather meander around the housing on the hillsides. However, it also leads through some of the most expensive real estate in Sydney so if you want to see the Australian dream in all its glory, or pick your own perfect bay to live on, this is the walk for you!
ROSE BAY
Rose Bay is the largest bay within Sydney Harbour, although the beach is relatively short lived and walking along it involves some stepping stones over a storm drain inlet.
The bay was the site of the original Sydney International Airport in 1938 when flying boats took on the passenger and airmail run between Sydney and London. The journey took 9 days, with Qantas flying the first leg to Singapore in three days with five stops en route. Imperial Airways continued on from there.
When the airport was built at Mascot in the 1950’s, the flying boats started flying to New Zealand and the Pacific Islands. By the 1960’s only tourism was left and the airport finally closed in 1974. Only the old RAAF officers canteen survives as a scout hall on Vickery Avenue. However, the bay is still regularly used by seaplanes for tourist flights.
Wending around the bay, the Boathouse offers fine dining. There is another small beach at the Rose Bay Reserve before the path climbs around the headland into the glorious heights of Point Piper.
POINT PIPER
A 30 m² Point Piper apartment recently sold for $1.1 million or $37,000 m² – the ex-caretakers cottage at 5B/78 Wolseley Road is sandwiched between larger multi million dollar properties but enjoys the same wonderful harbour view with shared infinity pool!
We came upon the Royal Motor Yacht Club and wondered at a digger working on a cliffside house before deciding it must have been lifted into position by a crane. A car went by with a full size metal deer in the back – funny, in America it would be a real dead one, here it is a garden ornament.
The houses have huge areas that stretch down the hillsides to the water and there is a diverse variety of architecture, from pseudo castles to Spanish haciendas to huge modern blocks with Farrow and Ball palettes and acres of sheet glass.
If you want to enjoy some downtime in the midst of all the splendor, the discreet Lady Martin’s Beach is tucked down a narrow, leafy alley which opens onto a stretch of pleasant sand – just shuffle your feet to frighten the sting rays away if you swim!
Next detour is the tiny Duff Reserve which nestles between the houses on Wolseley Road, possibly an area too steep to build on or a storm drain area. Today it makes a secluded place to chill if you are prepared for the steep climb up and down to the tiny patch of grass with a wooden platform – and that view! It is not so popular as there is no access to the water so you might be undisturbed.
We came upon a house with the most wonderful parking place with the full harbour view: an Aston Martin sat on display behind metal gates. It must give the owner quite a thrill just driving into his garage!
There is then access to a rocky shelf at the Scott’s College Rowing Shed which is probably not worth the descent.
Finally one drops down the hill onto the busy New South Head Road before Double Bay. However, it is rapidly left behind again and a narrow path leads down to Seven Shillings Beach which is overlooked by some very expensive real estate.
One passes through a fence to reach the next section which contains the lovely Murray Rose pool, named after an early Olympian. It is a busy spot with a curving walkway into the sea which creates a safe swimming enclosure with tempting floating platforms; there are loos and showers in the changing rooms above. The Redleaf Cafe has views to die for but closes at 3 pm.
Turning the corner soon after the Woollahra council buildings, we were suddenly amidst small, rather quaint individual houses, before finding the small Double Bay Beach which was covered in seaweed.
More alleys and a set of steep stairs led us through to Darling Point Road, an old area of Sydney with huge Moreton Bay fig trees and large houses. The crenelated Swifts, completed in 1877, was owned by a couple of brewing dynasties before being left to the Catholic Church and falling into disrepair. Luckily, Dr Shane Moran, whose group is the largest residential care provider in Australia, bought it in 1997 and it has now been totally restored and is open for weddings.
A detour now drops one steeply down to McKell Park and the Darling Point reserve, which is very popular with fishermen. It is situated within the grounds of Lindesay House, the first house built on the point and has attractive leafy terraces. The National Trust house is open to visitors on Wednesdays.
The ferry stops here but we backtracked a little then cut over the hill to Rushcutters Bay. Yarranabbe Park stretches along the foreshore with great views and is a popular place for dog walkers and joggers.
A little further on, one comes upon the old HMAS Rushcutter naval base which served as a depot, radar and anti-submarine training school from 1901 to 1979. Some of the buildings still survive and are used by the community.
The path curves tightly around the bay, which itself is full of tightly parked yachts whose masts cluster against the sky. More apartment blocks appear and create a merry twinkling effect as dusk approaches.
We pass a cricket oval and tennis courts before a final steep set of stairs lead us up to Elizabeth Bay, where the fine Elizabeth Bay House survives from 1835. Built for Alexander McCleay, the colonial secretary and the most important man in the state after the governor, it has free entry on Sundays and Mondays.
Luckily the path leads virtually straight past our hotel on Macleay Street where we are happy to call it a day – all those stairs had taken their toll!
NOTES
The undulating walk is approximately 8 km long with some steep steps en route. There are good transport options at both ends.
I would recommend the Jensen Hotel in Potts Point for good value accommodation in a great area.
