Time flies but the delights of Bruges are timeless and its picturesque architecture, magical canals and cosy hostelries will endure far longer than the bicycles on which we chose to explore the cobbled streets.
Simon asks me to take a picture of him and his bicycle in front of the Belfort, the great 13th century belfry which towers above the old market hall in the main square in Bruges.
“It’s a classic: it’s nearly a 100 years old!” he exclaims. “It even has the carriage lines painted on it!”
I’m on a BSA model which dates back to the 50’s. All very well and good but whether they translate to modern functionality is another matter. We ride home through darkened streets with Simon in front as his front light works and mine doesn’t; I follow as my back light works and his doesn’t – I suppose it makes a weird kind of sense!
It had been 6 years since our last visit to Bruges and I had to read my old articles to remind myself of our favourite haunts. Luckily not much had changed and Bruges continues to enthrall with its beautiful mix of cosy pubs and restaurants, old architecture and leafy canals – the latter especially picturesque in their October autumnal colours.
To reacquaint ourselves with the city we decided to follow a Visit Bruges 4.5 km walking route titled ‘Hidden resting places‘ – except we cheated and rode our old jalopies!
Cycling is a lovey way to see the city, with a superb network of cycling lanes and picturesque routes. Earlier in the day we had checked into the Memling Campsite, in a great location just 10 minutes by bicycle from the Kruispoort Gate.
Our route started at the Gunpowder Tower where unsurprisingly gunpowder was once stored. The bridge beside it has a lovely view over Minnewater, a particularly leafy urban lake and one of the finest views in Bruges.
The lake, with its multitude of swans, is well worth exploring but our guide suggested dropping down to the Poertorenpark via a graffiti sprinkled metal bridge beside the tower. There is a tiny hidden garden below with scattered seats and benches which escape the tourist hoards.
A quick cycle on along the leafy edges of the grand canal led us to Katelijnestraat where we ducked up Rodenonnenstraat to see an interesting modern development where tall wooden and glass buildings are cleverly squeezed between old convent walls.
There are quiet grassy spaces and on the righthand side of the lane a courtyard has some enchanting hidden wall niches with old sculptures depicting the Calvary.
A further detour off Katelijnestraat led to the Almshouses – or more quaintly in Flemish, the Godshuisen – on Nieuwe Gentweg 22.
There are almshouses scattered all around Bruges, often set up by the guilds for their elderly members or benefactors seeking their spot in heaven. Their inhabitants were morally obliged to offer prayers to heaven in the provided chapel. I am not sure if today’s dwellers do but it is nice to see that these charming old buildings are still in use.
Entering through an archway we found ourselves in a rectanglular square where the whitewashed almshouses exhuded genteel delapidation and a peaceful aura.
A friendly ginger cat climbed clumsily down from a fir tree and came to say hello but otherwise all was still. In another world outside the walls we could hear the clip clopping of the carriage horses going past.
We returned to Katelijnestraat where the aroma of warm waffles hung in the air and chocolate shops beckoned: the ever reliable Leonidas had chocolates for 34 euros a kilo, but there are designer options for over 50 euros.
We checked out the Old Saint John’s Hospital site where there is a small shady orchard that recalls the gardens that adorned the area until the 19th century. It seemed to be a popular lunchtime stop for students.
Feeling hungry, we detoured to De Halve Maan, one of Bruges’ oldest breweries, dating back to 1856. The basic 45 minute tour lasts 45 minutes and ends with a great viewpoint over the city.
However we were more interested in lunch. On entering the courtyard, be sure to take note of the beer pipeline running beneath your feet. It runs for 3 km to the bottling plant and carries 1,000 gallons of beer per hour — the equivalent of 12,000 bottles. Apparently it was crowd funded in 2016 with the 500 + donors being given free beer for life which doesn’t seem a bad deal!
The courtyard is a pleasant spot to stop for a beer, or the airy brasserie has a good set lunch for 29 euros for 2 courses.
Suitably fortified, we cycled on to Saint Saviour’s Cathedral, Bruges’ oldest parish church (12th–15th century). Ducking inside, we found an English choir in full flow which entertained us as we wandered amongst the rich tapestries and giant oil paintings.
Our next stop was Muntplein, a tiny square with a flamboyant statue of a woman on horseback, the Flandria Nostra, and a mix of modern and traditional architecture. We were amused by the ‘no wild-pissing’ sign – the city obviously gets too many English stag parties!
A short distance away, the Leeuwbrug (Lion’s Bridge) had two distinctive lions, one to each side, with their front paws resting on a shield bearing a ‘B’ for Bruges. The peaceful waters of the Speelmansrei are fringed by secret leafy gardens – it is an idyllic spot.
Passing the 3 star Boterhuis Hotel (doubles from 95 euros), in a few twists and turns we came to one of the few medieval wooden facades to survive in the city. Banned from the 17th century, such buildings had a projecting front to protect against water damage.
Our route now returned to the waterways and three closely spaced bridges: the Gouden-Handrei Bridge with its hand holding an eel – a reference in stone to the legend that tells of a demonic golden hand and an unfortunate eel fisherman. Then there is the 14th century Toren Bridge with it’s lantern and finally the Augustine Bridge, one of the city’s oldest, where you can rest on its 14th century stone benches, once medieval shop displays. The views are enchanting.
We followed the Gouden-Handrei canal, a tranquil spot which was once part of Bruges’ first city walls, excavated in the 12th century. The bicycles juddered along over the cobblestones until we turned into the Strostraat, a narrow alley whose big grey paving stones are tombstones from the lost cemetery around St Anne’s Church.
Soon we were in the Balstraat, an old cobbled street lined with whitewashed workers houses and a multitude of delights including the Museum of Folk Life and the cosy museum inn, De Zwarte Kat (‘the black cat’). The fascinating Jerusalem Chapel is nearby.
We called it a day and emerged onto the encircling canal by the windmills – once there were 23 within the city but only the Sint Janshuysmill is original to its location, the other two having been bought in at later dates.
It was constructed by the bakers of Bruges in 1770 and today is open as a museum. If approaching from Kruispoort, it is the second mill.
We turned back into the city for dinner at Ribs ‘n Beer – ribs seemed to be having a moment in Bruges and this restaurant appeared to cover both bases.
Suitably accompanied by beer for Simon and a Kriek for me (a type of open vat fermented beer flavoured with sour cherries or raspberries) we duly tucked into yummy ribs. The beer and chocolate coating seems to be a popular option given the location but we found the smokey BBQ rather more authentic.
We cycled home along lamplit canals, with a pause in the square for the jalopy photo. Stunning at any time, it looks particularly magical at night with its soaring tower and gaily twinkling restaurants.
Day Two
On a rather rainy day we drove to the Kruispoort Gate in the car to avoid getting soaked. There is plentiful free parking along the river on the ring road from where it is a short stroll through the old gate onto Langestraat which leads straight to the Markt.
One of the advantages of staying outside the walls is that it encourages one to cover more ground and this is one of my favourite streets.
It starts with two very good Sue Ryder shops, one a boutique where one can explore unknown brands and find some great bargains, the other a bookshop cum antique shop with unknown lurking treasures.
There are eateries such as the Lion Belge, a simple traditional style restaurant or the lively bar at St Christopher’s at the Bauhaus Hostel, which is also a good spot for flash packers.
I like the eclectic home decor at Vie de Vue who specialize in taxidermy – stuffed peacock anyone? – or the vintage delving in de Kobbe and riffling through the little jam packed Dag & Zonne antique shop on the bridge.
We were determined to feast on the best of Bruges, so sad to say it was fluffy frites for lunch at t’Brugsch Friethuys, on a corner just off the Markt.
We then cycled to a large charity shop just beyond the old ramparts before back tracking though the large ‘T Zand Square where the pleasant low key ‘t Putje Hotel has a nice outdoor seating area without the prices of the Markt.
More vintage shops beckoned: the chain Think Twice has two outlets, one at Vlamingstraat 25 and the other at Sint Jakobstraat 21, opposite the trendy De Republiek cafe/bar/restaurant. Both shops have a great range of clothing including chunky Nordic jumpers.
Whilst in the area, it is worth having a quick look at the De Vette Vispoort, a pretty almshouse with a narrow approach alley.
Time for more decadence! Afternoon hot chocolate is always a delight at The Old Chocolate House with a world chocolate menu, the drops coming in an edible cup so one adds the whole lot to the cup of hot milk. The cafe is cosy with leaded windows, a nice winter stop.
Afterwards we visited my favourite kitchen shop: Dille & Kamille in Simon Stevinplein which has everything you could need for a kitchen, including dinky little wooden scoops and spoons.
Next door, the Chocolate Line has some exciting flavours; the windows had some bizarre Halloween figures on our visit.
We ended the day at the t’Poatersgat pub, which has some 120 beers available in atmospheric vaulted cellars under an old church.
Again we found ourselves cycling back in the dark, enjoying the lights on the canals. Don’t miss Rozenhoedkaai, named after the rosaries which were once sold there – it is not a hidden corner of Bruges, in fact it is probably the busiest corner in Bruges, but an unmissable one with an iconic view. It is especially enchanting at night when the hoards have gone. Be sure to duck into the adjacent Huidenvettersplein (Tanners Square) to see the old tannery building with its wall plaques depicting the process.
DAY 3
On our final day we cycled around the canals for an early lunch at Cafe Vlissinghe, founded in 1515 in the Sint-Anna parish of eastern Bruges.
It is another one of those welcoming pubs that Bruges does so well, with panelled walls, old oil paintings and oak tables. A wood burning stove juts out into the room. Simon tucked into the house beer and we enjoyed hearty soup.
Nearby on the corner of Korte Speelmansstraat and Carmersstraat an elaborate shrine is dedicated to a girl who was thrown into a well but survived due to ice at the bottom.
There are unexpected delights around many corners in Bruges but sadly it was time to go, our car laden with Belgian chocolate and beer. The bicycles, their job done, rested on the back!
