One of the great train journeys of the world, the Indian Pacific links those two oceans between Sydney in New South Wales and Perth in Western Australia. We joined it in Adelaide for the famous crossing of the Nullarbor desert.

History of the Indian Pacific

Sometimes one wonders how we ever subjugated a country: when the Transcontinental Express railway linking Sydney in New South Wales and Perth in Western Australia was finished in 1917, crossing the continent required no less than five changes due to the different rail gauges.

Until 1996, it was more commonly known as the Tea and Sugar Train as it delivered essential supplies to the isolated towns along its tracks. Luxury carriages were added in 1951 which even had hot showers for the passengers.

It was not until 23rd February 1970 that the train was able to traverse the country in an unbroken journey, its new name chosen the previous year by public competition. The symbol of the wedge tailed eagle was chosen to emblazon the sides of each carriage and gradually one of the world’s great train journeys came to prominence, covering 4,352 km and including the world’s longest straight section of track, the 478 km on a stretch between Port Augusta and Kalgoorlie.

Day One – Adelaide

Our plan was to take the car with us on the train to Perth and drive back. Unfortunately, cars are accepted only from Adelaide so we had a 1,500 drive from NSW to Adelaide before we could join the train. Leaving at 10 pm on Thursday night, we would arrive in Perth at 3 pm on the Saturday, a journey of 2,294 km.

It was with some relief that 6 months after booking the trip, we rolled into the Adelaide Parklands Terminal at 1 pm on D-day and handed over our Ute – it was the first vehicle on, on the bottom deck of the carriage. I was actually surprised to see only 8 vehicles loaded, most people preferring to fly back.

65 people joined the train in Adelaide, meeting over an evening meal at the National Wine Centre. We chose to walk the 5 km from the train station to the wine centre, so we could seen a little of the place en route.

It is a pleasantly low key, low level city, surrounded by a green belt of parklands and river. Our first port of call was the Central Market, which is simply brilliant: the most wonderful array of foodie stalls, little cafes and other shops in a buzzy atmosphere. It is a great place to eat.

Wandering on, we found Victoria Square, with a statue of the eponymous queen and piccaninnies cavorting in the playful jets of a fountain. A further short stretch took us to Rundle Mall, the principal shopping area of Adelaide, and a scattered assortment of pavement cafes as it turned into Rundle Street. Have a look at the herd of playful bronze pigs gamboling down the middle of the street and investigating the dustbins!

A final stretch took us through the lush Botanic Gardens to the door of the National Wine Centre where we were taken to a private dining room to meet the rest of our travelling companions. Wine was copious but dinner was slow to arrive and Christmas crackers were pulled. It was at this stage that I was reminded of the The Far Side cartoons: the caption would have run along the lines of: It was at this stage that they questioned the advisability of booking the trip at Christmas! At least we could immediately discount talking to anyone wearing a paper hat.

Dinner finally arrived by which time we’d already had far too long an acquaintance with the singer who was to accompany our trip. It was a relief to get the bus back to the station and finally get on the train.

Our ensuite wood panelled cabin was bijoux but comfortable with a big window. The bar car had a great coffee machine and free alcohol on tap which made it delightfully informal – it was a good opportunity to start getting acquainted with the Western Australian wines to come.

The train pulled out slowly at 10 pm and trundled off into the dark; already there were surprisingly few lights around. After a night cap at the bar, we returned to find our beds made and the cabin looking quite cosy. Slipping in between cool sheets, we were soon lulled to sleep by the rhythmic motion of the train, shadow lands fading away outside our window.

Day Two – The Nullarbor

With my pillows by the window, I didn’t have to move very far to enjoy the dawn. Crossing to the north of the Eyre Peninsula, the land was redder with many scattered trees. It was only as we finished our full breakfast in the old dining car that we entered the Nullarbor plain that lived up to its Latin derivation: null arbor – or no trees.

13 ½ hrs after leaving Adelaide, we trundled into Cook for rewatering and refueling, having travelled 903 km. It was our first chance to get off the train for a real leg stretch and a short opportunity to explore this semi ghost town.

Cook was built in 1917 to service the railway and once had over 50 inhabitants – big enough to have a school, swimming pool and bush hospital, hence the famous sign If you’re crook, come to Cook. These are now in a picturesquely derelict condition, and other houses sit unused. Look out for the town his and hers jail houses.

Only a token force of four people is needed these days to service the trains and I would imagine they would have to be quite well paid to sit in such a desolate spot, the plain flat in all directions, an endless sea of low scrubby saltbush, the Eyre highway 100 km away via a dirt road.

1,391 km to go! Lunch back on the train included the interesting option of camel curry which was sufficiently tasty that one would never have guessed. I had grilled halloumi and quinoa: the cooking was proving to be well presented and appetising. Luckily our fellow passengers were sufficiently restrained not to abuse the free alcohol policy which I would have imagined a dangerous gamble in Australia, though I did see a couple of wine glasses at 10 am.

We trundled on through an afternoon of sage flatness, only the occasional bank of solar panels or old house relieving the monotony. As the light started to soften on what was actually the day of the summer equinox, we arrived at Rawlinna.

Another mothballed remote outpost, we dined on communal wooden tables laid out between the train and the old post office buildings. Dinner did not work so well outside, with the lamb rapidly cooling, plus we had that blasted singer again. However the aluminium sides of the train glowed orange in the setting sunlight and it ended up been quite atmospheric as night fell – I would not place it that highly on my list of quintessential outback experiences though.

Day Three – Into Perth

We traversed the old mining town of Kalgoorlie in the middle of the night and on waking up on our final morning, found ourselves back amongst trees, in a landscape much easier on the eye.

The train gave up at this point and the 230 km remaining at breakfast were to take another six hours to complete. Soon back amongst the great wheat fields of Western Australia, we saw traffic again and houses.

A final lunch on the train was excellent with a jewfish option or a chunky Caesar salad. We sat with two Swedish ladies: one of the nice things about the train had been the interaction with the other passengers – don’t come on this trip if you value your solitude. It is a complete lottery who you end up sitting with in the restaurant car so be prepared for anything, though Australians are friendly above all and only too happy to chat.

The final approach to Perth led us through hills above the rocky gorge of the Avon River – it was actually the most scenic part of the trip. We came to a gentle halt on the edge of Perth and our car was soon off and ready to go – certainly a very painless crossing of the Nullarbor.

One passenger on the train was completing his 18th trip so the train does inspire loyalty. There is also the Ghan option which does the north-south run between Darwin and Adelaide.

I had expected the trip to be a little more glamorous, but then Australia does not really do glamour: shorts, tees and thongs (flip flops) are the order of the day and most of the travellers are retirees. Service is excellent in the effusive Aussie manner and the food on the train was excellent, though sadly less so off it. The free bar is a nice touch and the accommodation was comfortable.

I enjoy train travel; it was an interesting experience and an insight into the history of Australia. It also brings home to one just how vast this country is – if you have the time to spare it is a comfortable way to travel and a good option as part of a longer trip.

Notes

The trains run all year round. Single fares in gold class with private ensuite cabin and all meals, alcohol and excursions start at $1350. More details can be found here.