We had just completed four easy days on the Laugavegur Trail. Now the far more challenging Fimmvörðuháls Trail beckoned. With no regards for health or safety, it is not for cissies: we took our lives in our hands and set out. 

The Fimmvörðuháls Trail is a logical extension to the Laugavegur Trail, continuing south from Thórsmörk for 29 km to finish at Skógar. 

Many people choose to do it as a day walk but it is a very long hard day. We preferred to take it easy, explore a little and not be rushed so we camped about half way at the Baldvinskáli Hut, an option I would highly recommend. 

It passes between two glaciers. The 600 km² Mýrdalsjökull rises to 1,512 m and contains the restless Katla volcano, which erupts every 40-60 years. The last eruption was in 1918, so another is overdue. 

The unpronounceable Eyjafjallanökull at 1,666 m is well known to nearly every one due to its disruption of air traffic in 2010. 

Between the two lies the Fimmvörðuháls Pass at 1068 m, the highest point on the walk. 

Having finished the Laugavegur Trail at the Skagfjörðsskáli hut, we could have started the Fimmvörðuháls Trail from there.

However, in the interests of reducing the following day’s hike by 2 km, we threw on our backpacks again, crossed the broad river and followed it for two easy kilometers to the Básar hut. This nice leafy campsite (2000 kr each) is popular with car campers who cannot make it across the river to Skagfjörðsskáli.

The Mýrdalsjökull glacier shone at the end of the valley – we would soon be there!

DAY 1

Básar Hut to Baldvinskáli Hut

11 km Ascent 770 m

A sunny day and no wind! We rapidly climbed away from the camp site on a pretty tree lined path, winding under tall mountains and contorted rock formations.

Looking back, the Thórsmörk valley was spread below with it’s huge flood plain. We ascended some very new steps for which I was grateful as previously there was just a chain to pull oneself up. For a brief moment I thought they might have improved the trail.

I was rapidly disabused of this notion at the next bit which was very scary: the Cat’s Spine or Kattarhryggir, a long narrow ridge with a huge drop off to each side. The path was fairly narrow, with a couple of boulders to edge around and over and although not in itself very technical, the knowledge that the slightest slip could very well be lethal did give an added frisson to the venture.

Sometimes I think ‘elf & safety have a point, I thought as I inched along, wishing there was at least a rope to hang on to – it is not a route I would want to do in anything less than perfect weather.

I gave a sigh of relief once that was negotiated and we followed another ridge to a small plateau and junction, where the day walk went off in another direction. We paused to look over the glacier and then had another stiff 100 m climb to another plateau.

There was some relief over it’s flat surface, the ground bare and desolate, covered in scattered rocks. Suddenly we came upon a huge black canyon where a glacial waterfall fell into the depths.

It looked a long way down but we had one more 300 m climb to do on its far side. We crossed the head of the canyon on a narrow path and then a rope and chain helped us edge around the steep mountainside until it swung up to deposit us on a ridge. I didn’t even dare look down for this one as our feet scrabbled for purchase on the steep incline amidst loose pumice.

We eventually arrived at the top of the climb and called a halt for lunch at a rocky outcrop which gave us a super view over Thórsmörk and the mountains of the Laugavegur walk which we had just finished.

A little further around the corner we found Módi (1130 m) and Magni to its south (1165 m) – both were created in 2010 in the Fimmvörðaháls eruption. The resulting lava field is 10-20 m thick and covers 1.2 km ². It is a fascinating place to wander in with fissures, craters and colourful pumice.

We climbed to the top of both the craters – it was a strange thought that we were walking on some of the newest land on earth! 

The new lava made for hard walking, being rough and spikey. It was certainly not the place to fall over.

Eventually we left it behind us, crossing a rather desolate plain at one point. We passed a rough signpost for the Fimmvörðuhskáli Hut, which is a bit of a detour along a ridge. 

The Baldvinskáli Hut seemed the more sensible option, being directly en route, although if you choose the Fimmvörðuhskáli Hut, there is an alternative route down to the bridge just before the waterfalls, avoiding the road. 

Soon we were only a kilometre from the Baldvinskáli Hut and were looking forward to relaxing at the end of a long day. However the trail had one last surprise to throw our way. 

A narrow valley loomed below us with a steep track leading down. I was some 100 m down when I realised I was in trouble. It was a sheer hard track with loose gravel and horribly slippery. The heavy backpack was unbalancing me and when my feet finally slid away from me, I decided an undignified approach the sensible option.

I slid the backpack down to Simon and followed on my bottom until reaching a more stable section where I could safely stand up and continue. 

It was only later when we reached the bottom and looked back that we realised that there was a big drop off into the valley if one went over the side. 

As it was, a slippery snow and ice field towards the bottom was also rather lethal so we were glad to emerge in one piece. 

We climbed up the other side and collapsed in a heap at the top of the valley, looking back and thinking:

 ‘Did I really go down that?!’ 

A group of five hikers suddenly appeared so we stayed just to see what sort of a job they made of it, and were immensely gratified to see that they had just as much trouble as us. 

It was actually a very dangerous spot – maybe that’s why the tour groups don’t proceed beyond the new volcanos!

Eventually we reached Baldvinskáli hut and put our tent up. The fee was 2,500 kr each and there were no facilities other than a composting loo. It was in a superb spot though with the glaciers to both sides and the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean away in the distance.

However, as it was quiet, the warden said we were welcome to use the hut. I had not actually been in one so was quite intrigued: it was nicely wood cabin-like with a big kitchen area and heating! 

DAY 2

Baldvinskáli Hut to Skógar

15 km Descent 980 m

Low cloud with bad visibility and a really wet mizzling rain greeted us at dawn. It would have been a horrible day for the previous day’s walk but our route now followed the waterfalls and they were actually surprisingly atmospheric in the wet.

Leaving the hut, we followed the rough service road for 5 km downhill before crossing a footbridge to the waterfall path. There was a memorial to a Scottish man who had drowned in 1984 — no doubt trying to cross the river before the paths were improved and they put the bridge in! I’d hate to imagine what the tracks were like way back then.

It was an 8 km walk from the footbridge down the Skógá valley to Skógar and it was no less a magnificent day than any of the others we had just done.

A succession of waterfalls cascaded down, too numerous to count – I think it is 26! From thunderous in your face monstrosities, to delicate plumes that slipped over the edge, from wide ledges to those that disappeared within the wild, rugged depths of a beautiful mossy canyon, it was a truly awe inspiring display.

One had carved out a hole within the rock so creating a magical effect, another ran over jagged rocky peaks. However the best was saved until last in this instance: Skogafoss itself, a perfectly wide, straight waterfall that fell over the final cliff in an even, thunderous torrent, sending spray in all directions.

We took our time walking down and the 13 km walk took a leisurely 6 hours. Despite the rain and mist, the waterfalls were still quite clear and impressive – the rain even seemed to give an added luminescence to the great pillows of moss that padded the canyon walls and swathed the rocks. 

The path was challenging in places, steep and slithery in the rain. 

‘Is it slippery?’ I asked Simon at one particularly steep section. 

‘No, it’s fine.’ he replied, just before skating out of control and disappearing head first into a gully. 

Some moments later he emerged looking even more army-fied in his camo trousers with an added layer of mud and grass. 

The path certainly made us think about walking too near the edges with their sheer drop offs; I found myself shying away like a nervous horse.

Soon we began to see day hikers on the path; when we reached the tourists with their plastic ponchos and umbrellas we knew we were really nearing the end.

The path finished where the Skógafoss waterfall ran smoothly off the edge, from where there was a long metal staircase to the base. It was surprising the number of people making the climb up as it was quite a stiff one – it was actually quite hard work on my aching knees by that stage.

We emerged at the bottom and walked up to the base of this last magnificent waterfall. With my wet weather kit I could approach with no fear of getting wet – as the water thundered over and the spray hit my face I knew we had finally arrived and we had survived both the Laugavegur and the Fimmvörðuháls! 

NOTES

The Fimmvörðuháls is approximately 26 – 29 km, depending on where you start.

Huts with adjacent campsites are found at Skagfjörðsskáli, Básar, Baldvinskáli and Fimmvörðuhskáli. All, bar Básar, are all run by FÍ (the Icelandic Touring Association). 

Camping costs 2,500 kr and gets you a space and access to toilets.

A hut costs 9000-12,500 kr and gets you access to a hut with mattress, a cooking area and shared facilties with campers. The huts only have room for 20 and are generally not used by the tour groups, so you may well find inside accomodation by just turning up. Neither hut has water on tap. At Baldvinskáli they sell a litre for 1000 kr – you may prefer to pack sufficient for the trip.

If you are prepared to camp, no booking is required so it can be tackled at any time and in any direction. There is also a campsite (1,800 kr) immediately in front of the Skógafoss waterfall. However it is horribly busy as all the tour groups walk through to get to the waterfall – maybe it is quieter at night.

All supplies need to be carried. Some huts sell minor stuff but it tends to be on the junk side of Pringles and Coke and overpriced. 

There are organised tours with guides such as Icelandic Mountain Guides, which include the hut accommodation, food and luggage transfers. However the 4 day Laugavegur costs 299,000 kr (£1,800), the 6 day option includes a day hike to the top of Fimmvorduhals and the volcanos, returning to Thorsmork with a day walk in that area the following day – they don’t go through. The final day of wonderful waterfalls is missed yet they still charge 329,000 kr (£1,981).

I did find one company that appears to cover the Fimmvörðuháls from pick up in Reykjavik and walking through from Skógar to Thórsmörk for 445 euros.

The Tourist buses, including Trex, Highland Buses and South Coast Adventure do pick up from Skógar and the local bus comes through once a day. We took the latter (no booking required) the afternoon we walked out and it still cost 3,400 kr each (£21) to travel the 67 km back to the car at Hella.