Old tracks from Aulus lead to the busy Coumebière intersection, and onto the fabulous lakes and mountains scenery of Bassiès.

If you have detoured to Aulus and most people will have done, head out of town on the back road from the Les Capucines Gite/Restaurant which leads out past a large mural depicting two ice carriers.

These men would carry up to 100 kg of ice down from the mountains at a time, using sheepskins on their back for insulation. They had a ready market in the town’s hotels, where the going rate was 2 sous a kilo.

Passing the Jewish war memorial, the road bends to the right, leading out of the village but the GR10 crosses the road to descend down a grassy track. Keep straight on this and you eventually reach a fork in the road.

Taking the left fork, the track segues into an old walled path. Quite soon, there is a sharp left turn off it and the GR10 crosses the road to start its climb to Coumebière.

This follows a path of giants, huge boulders formed into neat walls, snaking around the hillside. A left turn leads upwards with the occasional minor obstacle in the form of a fallen tree. There is a small waterfall and two further stream crossings, the balcony track en route giving distant mountain glimpses.

After a particularly rocky creek crossing, the by now narrow path climbs more steeply, following a knife edge ridge at one point.

There is enough filtered, dappled light for grasses, ferns and flowers to grow beside the track and with a jumbled boulder gully to the right and mossy trees, it is indeed a pleasant walk.

Finally daylight beckons and the track emerges by the road and the busy intersection of Coumebière. It is a popular starting point for walks and has a fresh water tap available. A sign warns of no camping within an hour’s walk of the road, although I think this is largely ignored.

The GR10 leaves past a cattle corral on a stoney path. I was slightly alarmed to spot a sign in 4 different languages telling one what to do if encountering a bear and hoped I would not have to put the advice into practice. There were lots of cattle and horses grazing on the surrounding pastures.

After only 10 minutes, I came to a lovely old cattle trough, basically a hollowed out log – maybe once lots of troughs were like this. It sits by a minor junction: if you want a quick splash in a nice stream, go right for 50 m.

This detour route continues on for an easy half hour to the Étang de Labant which is a charming small lake with a couple of good grassy camping spots, including a very discreet one to the right at the back. A track cuts back across to the GR10, if you choose this option – the lake makes a nice lunch spot and the path to it is largely in the shade.

Otherwise the GR10 continues on past the trough and starts a long climb to the Port de Saleix at 1,794 m. It appears to follow an old road for part of the way and in one straight section is elevated above the pasture – maybe it was once used by the old silver mines in the area. The ruins can be seen just before Étang de Labant.

It soon drops away as the track goes through some trees and up to the Ruisseau de Meringue signpost at 1,552 m. From here the GR10 ascends to the Port de Saleix in big zig zags. If you want a quicker option, bear off right here on a short cut that leads directly to the col.

From the col, the route climbs up very sharply and around a spur to drop down again over a boulder field to the Étang d’Alate, a good sized round lake hemmed in by rough cliffs and steep grassy slopes.

It is quite hard to find a good place to camp as it is quite rugged, but there is a grassy area next to a stream opposite the large rock with the refuge sign, and a more scenic spot right by the water at the far end of the lake.

The path continues up to the Col de Bassiès at 1,933 m, passing a rocky outcrop where there is a good view over the huge granite cirque, crowned by the distinctive shark’s fin shaped Picque Rouge de Bassiès at 2,676 m.

A sign indicates 45 minutes to the refuge and there is the first glimpse of the Bassiès lakes, a sparkling chain decorating the floor of the valley below. There is plenty of time to admire them as the path zig zags down steeply, as well as the numerous wild flowers which grow in profusion.

Nearing the valley floor, one can bear left on the GR10 and bypass the Refuge de Bassiès or continue straight on to reach it. It is a popular camp or accommodation spot and often used by fishermen who visit for the trout fishing. There is a wide range of lodging and meal options – they even store their mountain cheese in a traditional orrey.

Just before the refuge, I came upon a large boulder festooned with a sheep skeleton. Underneath was written Merci our or Thank you, bear.

Whether the area actually has a bear problem or just thinks it has, they are not taking any chances. The refuge has an electric fence around it, as does the small camping area. The sheep are secured on the mountain behind precarious fencing which must have caused some serious swearing amongst the shepherds who erected it!

The area is stunningly beautiful and if time permits I would strongly urge a rest day in order to enjoy the many waterfalls in the valley above the refuge.

For the more energetic, an ascent of the Picque Rouge de Bassiès is a steep but rewarding climb with far reaching 360° views.

Distance: 11 km

Ascent: 1,250 m

Descent: 350 m

Time: 5:30