National Geographic put it in its Top 20 Walks in the World category – after 4 days hiking the Laugavegur Trail in the Southern Highlands of Iceland, I can only agree.

Like all good walks it started with a bus trip!

Abandoning our car in the long term free parking opposite the bus stop in Hella, we put ourselves in the capable hands of Highland Buses – there is always a logistical problem with one way walks.

To add insult to injury, a ticket for two for the 2½ hour, 107 km trip to Landmannalaugar cost 16,000 kr (£95) – at least, as Simon pointed out, it was someone else’s vehicle juddering over the corrugations for a change.

The landscape quickly turned from prime pony grazing to volcanic: black mountains and craters with sparse grass and tortured lava flows dotted with the odd sheep. It was beautiful in a stark way although the large lake at Frostastaðavatn was a pleasant contrast.

There were two minor river crossings just before Landmannalaugar, the second rather deep if one took the wrong line. Later we watched some 4 x 4s attempting the crossing.

One chap was clearly hesitant but went ahead anyway. He raised his fist in triumph as people cheered – before he realised they were trying to tell him his number plate had just fallen off. Judging by the heavily festooned number plate tree by the Search & Rescue hut, this is quite a common occurance.

We checked in for camping (2,500 kr) on stony ground between the huts and the car park. The place sprawls in a river valley between colourfully streaked mountains, little more than a couple of accommodation blocks, a mess tent and 3 old green buses that serve as a combined grocery, hot dog stand and cafe.

We had a lazy day, wandering around the large Laugahraun lava flow that descended into the valley, conservering our energy for the next. Simon hunted for nice pieces of obsidian, the shiny black glass-like stone formed when lava cools quickly.

A gang of riders came in with a herd of horses behind.

‘One third trotting, one third tolting and one third lame !’ Simon remarked.

It was interesting to note that the loose horses trotted whilst the ones with riders tolted (which is basically pacing when both legs on the same side go forwards together) – so much for a natural gait.

As these scrubby little things are only about 12.2 hh and not really suited to large Westerners, someone on a day ride will be allocated 3 horses, hence the herd.

We finished the day off at the natural hot pools, or river in this case, where boiling hot water emerges from under the edge of the lava. It is an idyllic spot and delightfully natural (and free). Paddle around to find your ideal temperature: it is hotter the nearer one gets to the waterfalls.

Suitably relaxed we had dinner and turned in, the multi coloured mountains gradually losing their hue as the sun set.

DAY ONE
Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker 12 km, 4-5 hours, 470 m ascent.

Although Landmannalaugar could easily be done as a day trip, with a nice walk and a soak in the hot springs, we were there for the Laugavegur, a long distance hiking trail of 55.5 km (34.5 miles) from Landmannalaugar south to Thórsmörk.

We left at 8 am, ascending through the black lava field to a spacious valley before swinging up through fumeroles, the steam drifting wildly on the wind.

There was sun so the colours shone on the rhyolite mountains in vivid oranges, reds and greens.

After a leisurely 1½ hours we got to the junction with Brennisteinsalda, the most colourful mountain of all at 870 m. I did a quick 310 m detour to the top with only a 50 m climb and was rewarded with a wonderful 360° view. This would be a superb day walk and it can be combined with another mountain for a rewarding circuit.

We wound onwards along the hills and over another small pass before dropping down to Stórihvar, a fabulous geothermal area.

Here it is best to go straight down the gully into the valley, ignoring the markers which go up a hill to the left. It is possible to walk down the valley and, where it does a right angle turn at the bottom, to bear left up the ridge to regain the track.

We paused here for lunch and Simon even managed to boil water for coffee on a friendly if rather over active fumerole.

Afterwards we followed the valley around a little further to where it opened out. Moss grew brilliantly green beside the black stone and a glacier at the end appeared to have an ice cave at its base.

We did not go quite that far, but rather climbed up the hill to where clouds of steam indicated a large area of activity. Clouds were issuing from various vents, the steam emitting a huge roaring sound as if the earth itself was stirring.

We headed up the ridge and came to the trail junction. Continuing straight on leads rapidly to a blue pool amidst the hills.

Our trail then climbed steeply to the right, revealing a superb view over the hills.

Cairns now marked our route as we ascended more gently amongst shiny black obsidian. People had obviously broken the boulders to reveal the glass.

After an easy snowfield crossing, we found the hut at Hrafntinnusker just over the next ridge. It was good timing as rain threatened – and soon arrived.

The campsite stands below the huts, the better spots enclosed by stone wall wind breaks. The long drop toilets at the hut took me instantly back to a French pissoir, but at least there was water.

We checked in and paid the usual 2,500 kr each for camping. The girl said we could use the hut near the camp site but apologised and said that it wasn’t very cosy.

This proved to be an understatement. I think we were a year too early as it was an empty unfinished shell with just bare, dirty floorboards. Nevertheless it was the only option other than the tent on a bare hillside at 1,028 m. so we sat on a plank and made coffee.

An organised group had camped beside us the previous night. We had looked back early on from the lava field and seen them all lined up doing star jumps.

Later they passed us at the Brennisteinsalda turn off. The guide was busy on a walkie talkie and most alarmed that two of his clients had also done the detour up the mountain. He dashed off to retrieve them.

They were in possession of the hut when we arrived, with the luggage van rapidly following. They certainly pay enough for the service, although it is arguable whether sleeping side by side on mattresses on the floor is that great an experience, although at least the huts are heated.

Our temperature dropped dramatically in the evening and the unfinished hut became quite popular. After supper, we headed off to bed. It was – 4°.

We were entertained by a nearby Frenchman trying to put up a tent in the freezing dark with his partner – there was lots of swearing going on. The man was wearing shorts too which added to the entertainment.

DAY TWO
Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn 12 km, 4-5 hours, descend 490 m

Simon did a temperature check at 6 am: 4° in the tent and 24° in the sleeping bag. No wonder it is hard to get out of bed in Iceland! We emerged to find a good dusting of snow on the mountains although it rapidly thawed. It actually looked quite pretty.

There was no movement from our French neighbours whose tent sagged alarmingly despite all their efforts the previous evening.

Fortified with porridge we left camp at 8am although we were almost immediately distracted by a small ice cave below the hut. A stream emerged from its mouth and the cave actually went back quite a long way; ice crystals sparkled in the light.

The first 5 km were quite hard going as there were numerous steep gullies to cross and the footing was loose and difficult on the volcanic scoria.

Added to which it started to rain so we had to get all our kit on, then it stopped then started again. At the end of the day we actually worked out that we had put various items of clothing on and off about 5 times.

Finally we scrambled up a steep black incline to a prominent ridge from where there was a fabulous view: far away over undulating gullies to the hut we had left and over colourful hills of ochres and oranges.

The big mountains were largely black with intermittent grass and moss: it reminded me of pistachio sprinkles on a cake.

The track continued on to a geothermal area, the smell of sulphur heavy in the air. We dropped down a long valley where the earth bubbled and spat away merrily. It was necessary to watch one’s step as the crust could be quite thin in places.

I was tempted to collect some mud pot mud for skin care. It dries quite chalkily and smells a touch sulphurous but it is probably the same stuff the Blue Lagoon sells at great expense!

Suddenly the way ahead was revealed: a majestic range of spikey peaks and vallies, overlooked by huge glaciers. We lunched on a hill above it all and used a fumerole again to make the coffee.

The way down was steep but we eventually reached the river where another dress adjustment was required. We donned rubber bootees in order to wade across the icy river before a final largely flat 3 km stretch to our campsite for the evening, beautifully sited above the serene waters of Lake Álftavatn with its pitch black sand and sentinel hills.

DAY THREE
Álftavatn to Emstrur Botnar 16 km, 6-7 hours, descend 40 m.

They might be paying more but that doesn’t insulate from the communal facilities and a lack of toilet paper, judging by the anguished howl of one American in the morning.

We left at 8.30 on a rapidly brightening day, the pyramidal mountains stark above the valleys. An early river crossing was straightforward although the first hour was a steady uphill trudge.

We arrived at Hvanngil, another beautifully sited hut in a green valley, obviously popular with horse riding trips. It would be a quieter alternative to Álftavatn if you could bear the extra 1½ hours at the end of day 2.

We walked on through a lava field to another river, this one with a bridge.

We stopped to admire the waterfall and have some nuts to top up the energy supplies.

Shortly afterwards there was another river to ford which again was straightforward but icy cold. We were impressed to find the tour guide stood in the middle of it downstream from his clients to see them over – his feet must have been frozen as there were at least 15 of them and they weren’t moving quickly!

Afterwards, the walk descended into a yomp down the middle of a valley over ash and stones. It was easy enough going and at least the hills to the sides were attractive.

Finally we reached a bridge over the Útigönguhöfðar, a rushing glacial river with murky water. We stopped there at midday for lunch: just downstream of the bridge a waterfall fell noisily into an amphitheatre with explosive spray.

We then carried on along the valley, rather a dull trudge which seemed to go on forever, cresting some low passes with scenic mountains. Scattered stone and pumice littered the floor: it was funny to think it has probably been sitting there since it was blown out of the volcano thousands of years ago.

Eventually on a distant ridge we saw a weather station and knew the hut was just below. However, before we dropped down, there was one last detour.

Some things catch you by the throat and shake you with their impossible beauty. Markarfljotsglijufur Canyon is like that: surprisingly deep, a variegated riot of browns and reds, ochres and luminous greens, its narrow shelves and edges a smorgasbord of colour and ruggedness, with not a smooth side anywhere. It was actually one of the most beautiful things I had seen in Iceland.

There are a couple of viewpoints, which leave the service road. The first gave us a waterfall view, the second led to a 2 km loop around the plateau above it – all were raw nature and wonderful.

We arrived at the Emstrur Botnar hut so late that little space was left. We had to camp rather too close to the whiffy overflow from the huts, so had a quick dinner and bed!

DAY FOUR
Emstrur Bonnar to Þórsmörk 15 km, 6-7 hours, descend 300 m.

We left soon after 7 am, keen to get away from the effluent miasma that hung over the camp. People were already queuing for the showers and loos.

We walked about 40 minutes to the same river which we had lunched on the previous day. We had breakfast overlooking the bridge crossing which looked rather hairy from a distance. There was a deep gorge with a precarious narrow path along one side – ropes were supplied.

However once we approached, it was actually fairly wide and we had no problems. I think the secret is don’t look down!

We undulated on and ascended another ridge, from where it is worth doing a detour out to a headland for another great Markarfljotsglijufur gorge view. It looks down on a point where two glacial rivers meet and the different coloured waters run side by side. A nearby gorge has a wonderful array of basalt formations in weird designs.

We walked down a valley with the Unicorn mountain to our right – although it actually had two horns, one to each end. The cloud was lifting rapidly and we had a hot sunny day.

Another ridge gave us great views down the valley and glacier looming above it all. We crossed a deep gully with a little stream; there was notably more vegetation. Lunch on a large headland gave us an all encompassing view.

For Iceland, one could not have had better weather. We had another valley yomp although this one was a bit more varied, the rare sunshine actually making the trekking quite hot for a change – we were quite glad to get to a leafy little bridge over a gorge and collapse in a grassy clearing above the river on the other side.

Another steep climb followed before we dropped down to ford the Kápa River. There were several streams to this across a broad valley floor, one particularly strong although only knee deep. We linked arms and feared for any children.

The last section passed through an old birch forest which in Iceland is only about 20 foot high. We descended to the Skagfjörðsskáli hut in the centre of the Langidalur valley at Þórsmörk which has a nice location on the Krossá river and beautiful grassy camp sites.

It was the end of the Laugavegur Trail and there was a big sign to prove it! We had completed 54 km over some of the most varied and beautiful terrain possible.

We sat down and had a coffee, but we could not rest on our laurels. We had intended having a rest day at Þórsmörk but the weather dictated otherwise. If we wanted to continue on and hike the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, we would have to leave the next day whilst we had a good weather window.

We threw on our backpacks again, crossed the broad river and followed it for two kilometers to the Básar hut. The Mýrdalsjökull glacier shone at the end of the valley and another walk beckoned.

NOTES

The Laugavegur is 54 km. Some combine day 1 & 2 for a 3 day walk but I would recommend a leisurely four days – there are plenty of things to see and explore en route. The walking is straightforward and there is plenty of respite between the hilly bits.

Huts with adjacent campsites are found at Landmannalaugar, Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Hvanngil, Emstrur and Thórsmörk. They are all run by FÍ (the Icelandic Touring Association).
Camping costs 2,500 kr and gets you a space and access to toilets and a sink.
A hut costs 11,000 kr and gets you access to a hut with mattress, a cooking area and shared facilties with campers and organised groups so expect queues. Where they exist, showers are 500 kr and of insufficient quantity for demand so hot water may not last very long.

If you are prepared to camp, no booking is required so it can be tackled at any time and in any direction. Huts are booked north to south and fill up months in advance.

All supplies need to be carried. Some huts sell minor stuff but it tends to be on the junk side of Pringles and Coke and overpriced.

There are organised tours with guides such as Icelandic Mountain Guides, which include the hut accommodation, food and luggage transfers. However the 4 day Laugavegur costs 299,000 kr (£1,800), the 6 day option includes a day hike to the top of Fimmvorduhals, returning to Thorsmork with a day walk in that area the following day – they don’t go through so the final day of wonderful waterfalls is missed yet they still charge 329,000 kr (£1,981).